First topic should be dated 2019-03-14

Found this sick beast sitting in someones yard rotting away. Always loved the old trucks so it appears I’ve going to invest in another money pit but I’m not making it a show truck. Just want it to be a solid driver.

Will post pictures but I can tell ya I have no experience with body work what so ever so anything rusted out I’ll have to replace which is pretty much the entire body but I was given two doors (with glass) and a solid hood which would of cost me $900 for hood and $530 each for the doors so doing good there.

CAB is my biggest worry. I may just have to take it off and bring it somewhere to have it worked on.

So let’s get an idea of body work cost (besides what the cab will cost me)
Front Fenders ($220 each, so $440)
Cowl Panel ($100 each, so $200)
Grill Support Panel ($270)
Bedside-Complete ($650 each, so $1300)
Just starting… I’ll add as I figure out what mess I got into

So started to disassemble the truck.
Removed the snow plow and removed left front fender to find everything is spray foamed. I’ve never seen so much spray foam.

Ordered some parts from Brothers

From: "Alex Delgado" <alex@brotherstrucks.com>

Subject: Your BROTHERS order has been received.

Date: April 1, 2019 at 6:26:22 PM EDT

To: <dennishosangjr@gmail.com>

 

Thank you for choosing BROTHERS TRUCK PARTS for your classic truck parts needs. Your order from 04/01/19 12:00:00 AM has been entered into our system and will include the following items. Please note that any items with a quantity listed under the "QTY BCK" field are items currently backordered and will ship automatically when back in stock. You will not be billed for backordered items until they are ready to ship.

Item Number	Description	Qty Ord.	Qty Shp.	Qty Bck.	Expected By
FF66R00 LEFT	60-66 FRONT FENDER REPRO LEFT	1.00	0.00	0.00
	Recipient: Notation: Gift
FF66R00 RIGHT	60-66 FRONT FENDER REPRO RIGHT	1.00	0.00	0.00
	Recipient: Notation: Gift
FFX6066 LEFT	60-66 FRONT FENDER EXTENSIONS LEFT	1.00	0.00	0.00
	Recipient: Notation: Gift
FFX6066 RIGHT	60-66 FRONT FENDER EXTENSIONS RIGHT	1.00	0.00	1.00
	Recipient: Notation: Gift
RF56S00 LEFT	55-66 REAR FENDER STEEL LEFT	1.00	0.00	0.00
	Recipient: Notation: Gift
RF56S00 RIGHT	55-66 REAR FENDER STEEL RIGHT	1.00	0.00	0.00
	Recipient: Notation: Gift
FW5972B	55-87 FENDER WELTING - BLACK	1.00	0.00	0.00
FTCS466	64-66 FENDER TO CAB SEALS	1.00	0.00	0.00
FFLB600 LEFT	60-66 FRONT FENDER REAR BRACE LEFT	1.00	0.00	0.00
	Recipient: Notation: Gift
FFLB600 RIGHT	60-66 FRONT FENDER REAR BRACE RIGHT	1.00	0.00	0.00
	Recipient: Notation: Gift
FFSB066	60-66 FRONT FENDER SHIELD BRACKETS - PAIR	1.00	0.00	0.00
AMS6066	60-66 INNER FENDER SEAL SET - SPONGE	1.00	0.00	0.00
FSMB66S	47-66 FRONT FENDER BOLT SET - STAINLESS 5/16 - 18 X 3/4	2.00	0.00	0.00

Your order total is $2118.31. This total includes your parts, shipping and any applicable sales tax. Please note that orders requiring express, oversize and/or truck freight shipping may require additional shipping charges. If needed, you will be contacted by BROTHERS Sale Dept. prior to your order processing. To track the progress of your order, go to http://www.brotherstrucks.com/statuslogin.asp If you have any other questions, e-mail us or call BROTHERS directly at 1-800-977-2767.Thank you again,BROTHERS Sales Dept.orders@brotherstrucks.com .

 

Body is rusted out so found another 63 Chevy truck cab at Desert Valley Auto Parts in Arizona $650 plus $950 transport fee to Michigan.

Ordered today with F&S Carriers to deliver to MMC Collision. They did the work on the K5 and it was awesome! This truck is not a show truck but they are getting so hard to find that I want to protect it from Michigan rust.

 

Now the cab is ordered I have about two months to strip everything off the frame. Then clean existing rust off frame / suspension, paint with POR-15. May look at anyone in area that will acid dip the frame to clean it inside and out. I would really hate to look for a new frame for this truck. Doubt they exist.

Will probably pull motor, trans, transfer case, etc so I can get all the frame cleaned off.

Whats odd is the new body doesn't come with a Title..  not sure what to do.  WIll have to research that later

Sooooooo the CAB from Desert Valley Auto shows up on the roof of a car hauler trailer with no way to remove it. S&S transport pissed me off. Another $100 to pay 6 guys to carry the cab down the ramp.

Next bit of BS is brought to you by Desert Valley Auto. You see the pictures above that they sold me on the cab. I don’t see the drywall molding for rockers or the bottom of the cab that is rotted out. All this money I paid for this cab and it doesn't even come with a frickin title?  Well I am hoping the VIN is still intact on the body so I can order a new title for it.

So I’m in this for $1500.. just paid MMC $300-500 for a media blast of the cab so we can see what is good and what needs to be replaced. Suppose to get picked up Monday for that. Not sure how long it will take.

Was successful removing rear fenders yesterday in prep for taking bed and cab off today. We’ll see how that goes

A HUGE thanks to my dad and my oldest son Zack for helping me remove the bed and then cab of the truck. So much spray foam and rusted bolts. Lots of grinding and torch use.

What’s left?

Remove Chevy 400 engine, 350 turbo trans (bad), transfer case and front clip.
Then, media blast frame and axles
Then, paint frame (probably por-15)

 

It's been awhile but been swamped with work.

Sunday we are going to remove engine, trans, driveshaft and move out to shed (keep it covered).  Then we will continue on Sunday to remove the extra crap like sidebars, left over parts we cut off that are still attached.

Monday I will bring down to Master Blaster in South Lyon, MI at 8am and have him blast the frame and axles and get it down to bare metal. Then I'll haul it back home and once back in garage I'll begin the two stage process to paint and protect using

1. POR-15 Metal Prep
2. POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating (FIRST)
3. POR-15 Top Coat (LAST)

Won't have to worry about rust on the frame anymore.

Looks like I may not get the required POR-15 products until Tuesday. So one day of bare metal. uh oh

Yesterday my dad and I removed the engine, trans, and xfer case. 90% prepped. Wish I had more time to remove old brake lines and a few odds and ends.

Just dropped off frame at master blaster. Removed tires and wheels. Rest is getting hit

Frame is bent so originally scheduled for McFall's Collison to straighten it out for $500 but by body guy said don't do it.  Instead go to Nel's Frame Shop in Flint..  so awaiting a call to find out when.

Address: 5290 N Genesee Rd, Flint, MI 48506

Phone: (810) 736-4000

Frame has been sand blasted ($300 Master Blaster, South Lyon, MI) and then came home and put Por-15 Rust Preventative on

 

Wow, these frames/chassis are beautiful but they don't offer 4x4 and I couldn't even afford a 2wd version but man are they beautiful

http://nolimit.net

 

I don't need it yet but I do like these fuel tanks (non EFI will run me about $370 for 19Gal).  My plan is to have the fill on the side of the bed of the truck.

Boyd Aluminum Fuel Tank, Side Fill, Non-EFI - 63-72 C10

http://pbfab.com/boyd-aluminum-fuel-tank-carb-side-fill-63-72-c10

Product Number: 14002
Approx 19 Gallons

1963-72 Chevy C10
Standard
Side Fill
Non-EFI

I really like these gauges but haven't heard of intellitronix but nice looking replacement gauges for sure.  selling around $595

Last coat of por-15 top coat. DONE painting frame! U probably can’t even tell a difference from the last pictures but that top coat will protect the rust preventative from breaking down.  Tired of rust on the frame.

still trying to get an appointment with Nel’s frame shop to straighten her out.

then strengthen/re-enforce frame with some more metal support welded in place.

Then next step is brake lines and fuel lines.

then put engine & trans back in

 

Dropped frame off at Nel’s frame shop today. His guess for cost is around $250 but anything less than $500 would be nice.

BAD NEWS... frame is too thin to straighten.  This frame is useless and all the money I just spent on it media blasting it, painting it, etc is just money down the toilet. SHIT!

Nel recommended looking for a 4x4 67-77 longbed truck frame to replace.

doh!

let me see if the 64 body is worth continuing project

Went to MMC to see what body needs to make it good and solid.

Guessing between $1500-$3500 in labor + $750 for floor, $200 for both rockers + $40 for cab corners. Around $4000 for a metal cab?  Not sure.

BrothersTrucks.com has

• full floor (CFP660B) for $699
• Outer Rocker (RFPS650) - $72.99 each side
• Inner Rocker (IRPE072) - $8 each
• Lower Cab Corner (LCC6600) - $18 each
• Cab Corner Mud Guard (LCCMG66) - $50 each

Primed?

Labor?

Thoughts about prep work...  after metal work is done, MMC wants $2000 to do bodywork (smooth out, remove dents, etc).. I don't have the cash so it may not get smoothed out and dents removed.

INSIDE and OUTSIDE CAB: Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray Epoxy Primer Black $25/can (roughly 10 cans)

OUTSIDE CAB: (1-4 days later) Eastwood 2K Aerospray High Build Urethane Primer Gray $25/can (roughly 6 cans)

INSIDE FLOOR/Firewall: Eastwood Heat and Sound Barrier Coating 1.5 Gallon Kit $214 (roll on with a foam roller)

 

You might want to look for a 1973-1991 Suburban chassis and this company sells a kit

https://www.e-zchassisswaps.com/8

You may want to purchase the kit first since it does have a firewall piece that you'll have to cut out on your existing cab and weld in place this new piece.  Would make sense to do it with all the other body work before you prime it.

On 8/20/2019 at 3:08 PM, guru said:

You might want to look for a 1973-1991 Suburban chassis and this company sells a kit

https://www.e-zchassisswaps.com/8

Awesome...  I am definitely doing this.  So I found a 1986 Suburban K20 (3/4 ton) in Indiana (I live in Michigan so about 4 hours each way).