Ok so it’s not 4x4 and someone wants to trade me for a 91 3/4 ton 4x4. So it’s like for like (pretty much)

 

 

Okay so I want a 3/4 ton 4x4 and both of these are 2x4 so I found a 90 that the floor and frame are gone but it sorta runs and has all the stuff for a 3/4 ton 4x4 that I can move over to the Brown 86 I showed earlier.  I believe this will require me to replace the front end completely.  The 2 wheel drive 3/4 ton suburban has coil front suspension and the 4 wheel drive 3/4 ton 90 suburban has leaf springs in front

The plan of attack (typing out loud)

1. remove rear axle from 90 blue rust bucket and clean it up, and paint it. (Also for some reason the passenger side wheel is locked up... hoping its just brakes)
2. remove rear axle from 86 brown suburban
3. install the old (non-painted) rear axle from the 86 suburban under the 90 blue rust bucket.
4. install the new painted rear axle from the 90 suburban under the 86 suburban
5. Now push the 86 suburban backwards into garage so we can work on the front-end (need to move over the 90 front end over to the 86 suburban)
6. First evaluate how the front end of the 90 suburban is setup so you know what needs to be done over on the 86.  This means, take ALOT of pictures.
7. You'll have to grind off the rivets on both vehicles.
8. Suggestion is to remove the front clip (fenders and front grill).  it will easier to work on the front end if that is out of the way.

Also need to do a compression check on both engines to see which one is healthier..  the blue rust bucket 90 is an old police cruiser so curious if it might be in better condition or better maintained. I feel a compression check might tell all.

 

 

Ok, new plan of attack.

1990 4x4 3/4 ton Chevy Suburban has a frame thickness of .192 (one of the thickest frames that is pretty standard for many years prior for 3/4 ton).

I have a lineup on a 1984 4x4 1/2 ton Chevy Suburban Frame that use to have a diesel in it but its frame thickness is much less since its a 1/2 ton but the advantage is its a very very clean frame where the 90 is very scaled.

So the plan of attack is I get rid of the body of the 1990 suburban so I can get a better look at the frame and compare to the condition of the 1984 suburban frame (that doesn't have a body on it)

NEXT, make a decision on which one to invest money in because the next step is to clean the frame and paint frame as well as replace any worn parts like:

• u-joints
• ball joints
• brake lines
• brakes
• fuel lines
• tie rod

Install core support (should be two bolts to frame) that hold the radiator.

Axle swap.. the 1990 frame was bad... real real bad but going to salvage the 3/4 ton axles by putting them on the 1984 frame

GOOD FRAME

BAD RUSTY FRAME

Axles are moved over and 1984 frame in garage. Replaced u-bolts ($64). Beat the snot out of the 13”drums to get them off which in turn broke the drum. So purchased two new drums from o’reillys for $90 a piece plus spring kit, plus cylinder, plus shoes.. $290 total.

ordered a new emergency brake cables (left and right) from rock auto. $40 and be here by Thursday

 

 

Ordered new 3/4 ton leaf springs for 52” since the 1990 is 56” I would have to take things apart and reassemble.. too risky. Ordered from General spring today and they will arrive Wednesday. $400

A big issue...  can’t figure out this stupid motor mount. No one carries this motor mount

They instead sell you a motor mount with holes in four corners. This is more of a triangle with two holes on top and one in the middle bottom.

This is the motor mount everyone sells and no the middle hole doesn’t line up with the hole on frame.

 

Motor Mount answered...  the 1984 Chevy Suburban 1500 4x4 was a diesel which is a different part number (doh!)

All the part stores were providing the 2292 part which is for a small block engine but what I needed was 2395 which is for a big block or diesel engine.

Also a note is the bolt you need to go through to hold the engine is a 7/16 14x5.188 (GM Part# 15154230) and obviously you need two.  Not able to find the bolt at TSC, O'Reilly, Advance Auto, AutoZone, Home Depot, Menards.  They can be ordered at a dealership but they will only order 10 at a time.  I'm try a place called Mid-State Bolt.

Still need to get the crossmember that holds up the xfer case/transmission from the old 1990 frame and install on the 1984 frame but its covered in snow so I'm looking for anything else I can do for no money.

DEBAT: Do I install the Chevy 400 engine or do I install the Chevy 350 engine that was in the 1990 suburban and if I go this route I will need to replace the distributor with HEI (since I'm not using a computer).  Also the intake manifold will need to be replaced and the throttle body injection moved to straight up carb.

The Chevy 400 engine runs as is but Chevy 400 engines are known to have cooling issues I believe I heard.  Any advice?

The SBC 400 was famous for running hot and that is why they have steam holes to break up the bubbles that form at the point the cylinders are siamesed.

There is nothing wrong with the design, it is just that the folks that GM sold the cars too and all subsequent consumers of this fine product tended to neglect and abuse the motor. Hence the pretzel shaped heads and cracked blocks you read about. Not the engineers fault; they work fine if you change the anti-freeeze every now and then and swap out the thermostat when it seizes closed. 

Try this for a budget 350 or 400 torque combo that is proven and not just theory:

• 882 casting chevy heads with 1.94/1.5 valves, 3-angle valve job
• Flat top cast pistons and moly rings of your choice but Speed Pro is good
• Don't cheap out on machine work, get the best
• Comp Cams XE256 (350) XE262 (400) cam and lifter set
• Double roller timing set
• Fel Pro gaskets
• Edelbrock Performer EPS intake maniold
• Edelbrock 600 cfm carb (1406)
• HEI ignition and good spiral core wires
• 1 5/8" headers and a good free flowing 2 1/2" dual exhaust system

This combo is good for about

• Chevy 350: 300 HP and 400 TQ
• Chevy 400: 310 HP and 430 TQ

Installed the new rear leaf springs (52”) from general spring that has 2700lb capacity...  the most I can find in a 52” spring.

Old 1/2 ton

new 3/4 ton

Brakes are all installed (needed to pick up an adjuster to get the necessary springs).

Noticed the Transmission crossmember from the 1990 suburban won't work.  So I ordered a new one from LMC and its suppose to arrive by Wednesday (11/20) via FedEx

Thank you for your order. Your Order W3822236  Order Date: 11/17/2019

Part # Description Qty Price Status Total 37-8459 TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER 1 $79.95 In Stock $79.95 34-0359 GROMMET SET-TRNSFR CASE MOUNT 1 $19.95 In Stock $19.95 34-0361 TRANSMISSION MOUNT-URETHANE 1 $69.95 In Stock $69.95

Parts Total $169.85

Sales Tax $11.87

Truck Freight $0.00

Oversized Parts Fees $0.00

Core Charges $0.00

Standard Delivery & Handling $27.75

Order Total (USD): $209.47

Went to Advance Auto and picked up some steel brake lines that will need to be cut, reflared and bent then installed (hopefully tomorrow). My dad has the flaring tool and is going to help me out tomorrow.

So working on drivetrain since I'm running out of time before the suspension, frame and drivetrain has to be together and the ez-chassis parts need to be installed in preparation for the body.

here is what is on the agenda for near term

1. finish rear brakes (need brake lines ran along axle)
2. hook up front brake lines
3. pull frame onto trailer and run down to the spray in wash (soak frame with purple power, engine degreaser/cleaner and power wash the crap out of the frame).  Need oil/grease off frame.
4. install the ez-chassis swap parts
5. paint frame with por-15 ( just the topcoat version since frame is in really good condition.)
6. install drivetrain (engine, transmission, transfercase, driveshafts with new u-joints)
7. lift front of frame and check out front axle (bearings etc)

From my best guess I believe the gear ratio is 3:73 for the 3/4 ton axles from the 90 suburban

For the engine, I purchased the 350 engine that came out of my 91 Blazer when I put the 383 crate motor in it.  So what did my dad do to my old Blazer 350 motor?

• new Oil Pump
• new heads
• new cam
• new HEI distributor
• new water pump
• new alt bracket
• used alternator (not positive its good)
• new mount mounts
• new pulleys
• new valve covers
• new double row timing chain
• new timing cover
• new roller rockers (pretty sure)

So that will mate to a 700R4 transmission I had rebuilt for my 91 K5 from Unlimited Offroad.  I didn't like how it worked with the Blazer so I ended up having someone else build me a 700R4 for the K5 so I have this rebuilt transmission that will bolt up perfectly.

I also have a spare transfer case since I had a transfer case shipped from Wisconsin (from some monster truck place and its been awesome).  So I have this transfer case so may as well use it.

Yea, lots to do and short time to get there...  just don't want to just do it to do it.

Okay found some more differences

front brake hose is different between

(Right)1990 2500 4x4 suburban 350gas

(Left)1984 1500 4x4 suburban diesel

As well as transmission/transfer case cross member

Right)1990 2500 4x4 suburban 350gas

(Left)1984 1500 4x4 suburban diesel

Something doesn’t feel right.

holes on 84 frame are closer together than the holes on the 90.

going to wait to see how it lines up when everything (engine/trans/xfer case) is installed.

tomorrow I’ll see how those new front breaks lines connect to the calipers 

Having some difficulty with the EZ Chassis swap

FRONT of frame.

Mount on either side needs to be removed (from my understanding)

Here it is showing the mount is gone..  destroyed.. outta here.

 

Right behind front wheels is another mount that had to be removed.  The replacement EZ Chassis piece bolts right up to existing holes

Now further back, in front of the rear wheels you have another mount that needs to go bye bye

So I made it so

BUT the new part doesn't bolt up and you need to understand how to bolt on the new part so you don't make a bunch of un-necessary holes turning your frame into swiss cheese.

I believe once that last one is done, then that will be enough to bolt everything cab and forward.  I don't really understand the replacement pieces for the bed yet but since its the last thing I do I'm pushing it off.

Painted the frame with Tractor Implement Gloss Black paint. Turned out okay.

 

Looks like I'm going to put the engine, trans and xfer case in this Sunday. (hopefully)

Will need to figure out trans mount/support.

Made some progress. 4 body mounts on.

plus the radiator /core support brackets

Added body mounts