wildweaselmi
GearHeads
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Everything posted by wildweaselmi
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Some random photos and videos
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shifting-gears.jpg
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shifting-gears_1.jpg
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shifting-gears_3.jpg
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shifting-gears_4.jpg
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Ring Meme SpeedClean
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Eat Sleep Car Wash
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VW Street Turbo Racing
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Street Racing
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Summit Racing Equipment
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Street Racing Logo
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Skull Pistons Decal
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Racing Logo
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Racing Logo
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Nitto
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GO RHINO Products
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Ford Graphic
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Eat Sleep Shift
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The plan of attack (typing out loud) remove rear axle from 90 blue rust bucket and clean it up, and paint it. (Also for some reason the passenger side wheel is locked up... hoping its just brakes) remove rear axle from 86 brown suburban install the old (non-painted) rear axle from the 86 suburban under the 90 blue rust bucket. install the new painted rear axle from the 90 suburban under the 86 suburban Now push the 86 suburban backwards into garage so we can work on the front-end (need to move over the 90 front end over to the 86 suburban) First evaluate how the front end of the 90 suburban is setup so you know what needs to be done over on the 86. This means, take ALOT of pictures. You'll have to grind off the rivets on both vehicles. Suggestion is to remove the front clip (fenders and front grill). it will easier to work on the front end if that is out of the way. Also need to do a compression check on both engines to see which one is healthier.. the blue rust bucket 90 is an old police cruiser so curious if it might be in better condition or better maintained. I feel a compression check might tell all.
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Okay so I want a 3/4 ton 4x4 and both of these are 2x4 so I found a 90 that the floor and frame are gone but it sorta runs and has all the stuff for a 3/4 ton 4x4 that I can move over to the Brown 86 I showed earlier. I believe this will require me to replace the front end completely. The 2 wheel drive 3/4 ton suburban has coil front suspension and the 4 wheel drive 3/4 ton 90 suburban has leaf springs in front
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Sometimes I just don't have the time but you can only eat so much pizza. Season chicken on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place chicken breasts in skillet skin side down. Sprinkle with fresh herbs. Do not disturb the breasts until the skin side sears, 5 or 6 minutes. Turn chicken. Cook until internal temperature reaches 150 degrees F, about 5 minutes. Add vinegar and butter to pan with chicken. Shake pan gently until butter melts and internal temperature of chicken reaches 160 to 165 degrees F, 2 to 3 minutes more. Add a splash of chicken broth or water if sauce needs to be thinned. -
Awesome... I am definitely doing this. So I found a 1986 Suburban K20 (3/4 ton) in Indiana (I live in Michigan so about 4 hours each way).
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I just got my Baofeng BF-F8HP radios. Pretty impressed with the quality. In hind site I didn't think about charging them even though it does come with a desktop charger, but I don't plan on leaving it on my desk. So I ordered an expansion battery (estimated to be good for 2 days on one charge) with a USB charger. Whats cool about this setup (expansion battery and USB charge cord) is now you can charge the radio directly where before you had to use a cradle since there is no ports on the radio itself to charge withhout cradle. Now with the expansion battery you can charge direct. So now I have to learn how to program the radios. I have 128 channels so I'm hoping to program the first 40 channels with CB channels, then starting at 50 I would program the rugged radio frequencies since you can't reprogram rugged radios last I checked. With just this setup I would have all CB channels and all rugged radio GMRS channels. Pretty good deal with maybe some high end channels being emergency like NOAA, etc. Still trying to get a complete list (the optimum list) to program into my Baofeng BF-F8HP. Do you have a great list to import of frequencies you recommend having? I'm using the freeware CHIRP software package to program the radios. Do you recommend anything different? I use a Mac 98% of the time and the 2% I use a windows VM. check out the programming reference guide for the Baofeng radios here Here's our short description of each field: Frequency (eg 151.625MHz) Channel Name (Weatherman!) Tone Mode (leave blank for no tone) (options TX Tone, TSQL (tx&rx), DTCS Analog Tone Code (ignored if mode left blank) eg 171.3Hz Tone Squelch (TX and RX Tone, also ignored unless Mode set to TSQL) Cross Mode if using Tone or DCS in tx or rx differently DTCS Code is transmit DCS tone RX DTCS Code is for the receive DCS tone DTCS Polarity eg D023Normal and D023Inverted (Normal or Reverse) Duplex (leave blank for normal, + or - for offset frequencies, off for RX only like NOAA WX stations) Offset in MHz for TX and RX (normally 0 for desert stuff with no repeaters) Mode (FM is Wide, NFM is Narrow) Always use Narrow! Power!!!!!! (TX power level) Skip channel in Scan List (S to skip, blank to include) BCL Busy Channel Lockout disallows transmit if channel is busy! PTT ID is for announcement of radio's specific ID and not used in desert PTT ID Code is a DTMF string transmitted when PTT ID is enabled baofeng-freqs.csv
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Went to MMC to see what body needs to make it good and solid. Guessing between $1500-$3500 in labor + $750 for floor, $200 for both rockers + $40 for cab corners. Around $4000 for a metal cab? Not sure. BrothersTrucks.com has full floor (CFP660B) for $699 Outer Rocker (RFPS650) - $72.99 each side Inner Rocker (IRPE072) - $8 each Lower Cab Corner (LCC6600) - $18 each Cab Corner Mud Guard (LCCMG66) - $50 each Primed? Labor? Thoughts about prep work... after metal work is done, MMC wants $2000 to do bodywork (smooth out, remove dents, etc).. I don't have the cash so it may not get smoothed out and dents removed. INSIDE and OUTSIDE CAB: Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray Epoxy Primer Black $25/can (roughly 10 cans) OUTSIDE CAB: (1-4 days later) Eastwood 2K Aerospray High Build Urethane Primer Gray $25/can (roughly 6 cans) INSIDE FLOOR/Firewall: Eastwood Heat and Sound Barrier Coating 1.5 Gallon Kit $214 (roll on with a foam roller)
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BAD NEWS... frame is too thin to straighten. This frame is useless and all the money I just spent on it media blasting it, painting it, etc is just money down the toilet. SHIT! Nel recommended looking for a 4x4 67-77 longbed truck frame to replace. doh! let me see if the 64 body is worth continuing project
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Chevrolet/GM K5 Blazers, Jimmys, and Square Body Truck part locations DIY 4X (Pronounced DIY 4 by), custom fabrication parts such as bumpers, all kinds of mounting brackets, etc. for square bodies. EXTREMELY WELL MADE PARTS! Truck Shop A wide variety of hard-to-find restoration parts for square bodies. LMC, Truck Parts and Truck Accessories for restoration. Filthy Motorsports, King Shocks, Differentials, Off-Road Performance & Racing, Etc. Rock Auto, Great Prices, Easy to find the parts for your vehicle, Easy Return Policy. Summit Racing, general parts and racing/performance parts. Rocker Switch Pros, really nice switches. Hillbilly Wizard, Axles, Axles, Axles, heavy duty 14 bolt full floater 1 ton, custom axles, etc. Off Road Design, custom suspension, 4-Link suspension, hard-core vehicle components, etc Stock Interiors A1 Electric Harris Performance, INC, good info on tweaking out performance from the TBI engines. GMPartsGiant.com AMSOIL – the best stuff you can put in your engine! Join their Preferred Customer program ($10 for 6 months, $20 for 12 months) and save up to 25% and get free shipping on orders over $100.
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Things on To-Do List include: PAINT JOB: $10,000 TRANS: $3000 GAUGES: $1500
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I really like this cluster from Dakota Gauges: RTX-79C-PU-X ($1300) Attaching the Installation Manual (even though it says a different version the install is the same) to see how involved it's going to be. RTX-73C-PU.pdf RTX-73C-PU.pdf RTX_manual_main.pdf GSS-3000.pdf RTX_quick_start.pdf
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-First factory 6-speed manual transmission -First TRD Pro Tacoma
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Rough time with putting the hard top rubbers on. No one really has any pictures First thing to note is 4 seals are needed to put the K5 hard top back on left side rail right side rail note: both attach to the bottom of the hard top and should be attached using something like 3M adhesive... spray on rubber and when tacky (not just wet) attach to fiberglass top and hold into place.. awesome if u have clamps) inner cab (this seal attaches to the cab with adhesive) outter cab (this seal attaches directly to the hard top) note: in the picture you will see black where I attaches the outter cab seal for my soft top but had to remove it to but my hard top back on) in this picture above you can see the inner seal is in place. below picture is of the fiberglass hard top and you can see the black is where the old outter seal was. here are pictures of the outter seal. skinny side goes towards hard top and the little lip faces down (you will see that you can tuck that lip behind a groove found in the top. The groove isn’t all the way but spaced out like corners and stuff)
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Dropped frame off at Nel’s frame shop today. His guess for cost is around $250 but anything less than $500 would be nice.
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The first Full Size Toyota Truck called the T100 but did you know the T100 wasn’t really built by Toyota. Knowing that its own experience manufacturing full-size pickups wasn’t very thorough, Toyota farmed out engineering and manufacturing to Hino, a Toyota subsidiary that’s primarily responsible for commercial vehicles, buses and heavy trucks. When the T100 debuted in 1993, its sole engine was a 3.0-liter V6 that made just 150 horsepower. While power bumped to 190 hp in 1995, Toyota still didn’t give it a V8 — just a larger V6. And a 4-cylinder model was even offered beginning in 1994. The T100 added a dealer-installed supercharger option in 1997, bringing power to 245 hp.
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The Second Generation of Toyota Trucks in the US
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The first generation of Toyota trucks The Hilux started production in March 1968 as the RN10 in short-wheelbase form with a 1.5 L inline-four engine, generating a maximum power output of 77 PS (57 kW; 76 hp) in Japanese market specification. In Japan, it was available at the Toyota Japan dealership retail chains called Toyota Store and Toyopet Store. The modification to the engine was enough for a claimed top speed of 130 km/h (81 mph). The 1.5-litre engine was upgraded to a 1.6 L inline-four in February 1971. In April 1969, a long-wheelbase version was added to the range. The short-wheelbase version also continued in production for many more years. The long-wheelbase version was not sold in the North American market until 1972, allowing the Datsun Truck to maintain a strong market presence. The Hilux was offered as a replacement to the Toyota Crown, Toyota Corona, and Toyota Corona Mark II based pickup trucks in Japan, as the Crown, Corona, and Corona Mark II were repositioned as passenger sedans. In spite of the name "Hilux", it was a luxury vehicle only when compared to the Stout. The Hilux was engineered and assembled by Hino Motors to replace the earlier vehicle that the Hilux was derived from, called the Briska in the niche beneath the larger and older Stout – it replaced the Stout fully in some markets. For the North American market, the only body style was a regular cab short bed and all were rear-wheel drive. It used a typical truck setup of A-arms and coil springs in front and a live axle with leaf springs in back. A four-speed manual transmission was standard. Engines Global markets: 1968–1971: 1.5 L (1,490 cc) 2R I4 1971–1972: 1.6 L (1,587 cc) 12R I4 North American markets: 1969: 1.9 L (1,897 cc) 3R I4, 85 hp (63 kW; 86 PS) 1970–1972: 1.9 L (1,858 cc) 8R SOHC I4, 97 hp (72 kW; 98 PS) 1972: 2.0 L (1,968 cc) 18R SOHC I4, 108 hp (81 kW; 109 PS)
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The reason why nobody talks about these things is that they were only available in the U.S. for a handful of years in the 1960s—between 1964 and 1969 according to the Truth About Cars, though Toyota’s website seems to imply that sales stopped in 1967, and I can’t seem to find any U.S.-spec 1968s or 1969s anywhere on the interwebs. The Stout shared its platform with the Toyota Dyna until 1968, when the Dyna was given its own platform, called the Toyota "U". In Japan, it was sold at Toyota Japanese dealerships called Toyopet Store. Engine: 1.5 L R I4 (RK45); 1.5 L 2R I4 (RK43, ... Curb weight: 1,420 kg (3,131 lb) Wheelbase: 2,600–2,800 mm (102.4–110.2 in)
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Last coat of por-15 top coat. DONE painting frame! U probably can’t even tell a difference from the last pictures but that top coat will protect the rust preventative from breaking down. Tired of rust on the frame. still trying to get an appointment with Nel’s frame shop to straighten her out. then strengthen/re-enforce frame with some more metal support welded in place. Then next step is brake lines and fuel lines. then put engine & trans back in
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I really like these gauges but haven't heard of intellitronix but nice looking replacement gauges for sure. selling around $595
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