wildweaselmi

Found out I caused issues because I did a code upgrade to v6 while having the handheld plugged and the only way you can upgrade the ECU is unplugging the handheld and using a laptop with USB cable. Step by Step instructions Scott gave me are: Disconnect handheld Plug in USB Cable from laptop to ECU Launch v6 Desktop software click Cancel on the window that pops up CLick on two half circles and then select ECU - Upgrade ECU FW Browse to file HEFI_05001400.eep

Not getting any airflow at the defrosters

So I was driving around one day and something didn't feel right. Like it was struggling to keep going.. like it was about to stall but it would recover and be fine for a bit. Then it started to get worse and I went home and parked it and now it won't start. First thought was spark Pulled a spark plug wire off and attached a spare spark plug to it, wrapped a wire around the threads and grounded it and turned the blazer over and I could very clearly see spark (no issue with spark) Next though is fuel I can see two fuel filters in the path this filter (pictured above) is located in the engine bay this filter (FF3504DL pictured above) is located along the frame rail on the passenger side I changed them both and tried to start the blazer and same results. It sounds like it wants to start and kinda does but it just struggles to stay running then dies. **Not giving up on the idea it could be fuel pressure but need to get a fuel pressure gauge to make sure I'm getting whats required. Next step is to upgrade the FW on the Holly Fuel Injection since thats my troubleshooting is go after what I don't understand since I am unable to troubleshoot it in order to verify its working. Based on the above image, this is the initial Build (6.0 Build 110) which they are up to Build 300 which was released 2023.04.17 IMPORTANT NOTE: You will not be able to plug your laptop into the Holly EFI system without the Holly EFI System USB Cable 558-443 IMG_0791.mov

I believe the issue is the port above the HVAC was plugged into was the Timing Spark vacuum line. So I plugged that up with a rubber helmet and plugged into a T so it matches this diagram a bit closer (missing the check valve and vacuum reservoir) So for less than $30 on Amazon I can get the missing vacuum reservoir (#251 above) and the vacuum check valve to hook this up closer to how its designed. As it sits now I hooked the source vacuum line to the T as it shows in the image close to #7 and when I start the blazer up I can get defroster working but when I change setting to Vent that works but trying to go back to defrost it fails. I am assuming I loose vacuum since I don't have a vacuum reservoir so I ordered them off amazon and we'll see if that helps.

okay replacement heater control installed and blower works, hot/cold works, selector doesn’t seem to work. no difference between defrost, heater, vent. i’m assuming this could be vacuum issue. i traced the source vacuum line coming in on passenger side from right side of carb. going to get a vacuum pressure gauge to see how much vacuum is at carb and start working my way back ACDelco 15-17220/GM 16037769 which is close to impossible to find replacement part Here is the vacuum line coming in from the engine bay on the passenger side Vacuum source was plugged into this port on the carb

I did confirm I have power at BRN [50] with key turned to on and if I jumper from [50] at the selector connector to [64] I have blower motor functioning levels M1, M2 and HI so it feels as though I'm correct assuming the heater control switch is bad?? far left pin is the brown one top is brown so how i jumped over is just use a jumper wire like this then just inserted into the far left brown terminal and alligator clipped to the top where the metal clip is touching the metal of that top brown wire connection I ordered a reconditioned one off eBay for $75 since LMC is backordered and they have no idea when. I checked with a few others and they are all sold out as well. I found some less expensive ones on eBay but they looked like they dug them out of a graveyard so I passed since I don't to have to replace it again. I like the once and done approach. Do it right one time and don't worry about it, especially when you are on a trail in the middle of nowhere by yourself. I'll keep you posted when my new part arrives sometime end of this month (hopefully in time for some memorial weekend trail riding) Attaching images of the removal of the heater control for record keeping

The Purple wire needs to be 12ga wire to motor, the red wire also 12ga is hot at all times, the blue wire is the lower fan speeds from resistor block. If you have selected anything but High or off the blue wire should have power at below 12v. The Blue wire is normally closed path to blower motor through relay. The orange wire powers the relay coil and closes the high blower circuit. Looking at your relay plug I can see there has been high amp draw on the purple wire. This could be a worn out blower motor, bad ground, or dirty tarnished corroded purple wire connections. I am will to bet the purple terminal is loose and tarnished, and needs attention. The wire loom and plug above is handy, but the 2 12ga circuits have the wrong size wire. The terminals can be purchased, Packard type 56 female, they come in 12ga size and 16-14 size you need both if you wish to rewire. With key on select low fan check for voltage on tan wire at resistor block. If you have voltage check the blue wire at resistor block, should a lower voltage. The blue should be same voltage at relay, both terminals blue ,and purple. If this what you find then the wiring to relay is working as designed. Place the fan switch at High the orange wire at relay should show 12v and the purple wire should show the same voltage. If no voltage the relay is bad, if lower voltage the relay has dirty contacts and creating resistance. Either of those results replace relay. to check the resistor block test the voltage at the blue wire in low and medium, if they are different and below 12v it is working. No voltage in high or off on blue wire.

while i am waiting for those parts i need to figure out how to fix this white thing. i’m not sure what it’s supposed to look like when installed correctly

So I pulled the blower motor out and hooked the wire straight up to the battery positive and grounded it and WOW it works. The image above you can see the power terminal on the right. A purple wire was attached to it coming from the rectangle looking relay With this CLOSE UP image you can the purple wire on the right that feeds the blower motor Now I unscrewed the relay and flipped it upside down to figure out whats going on which is shown here Then I discovered the plug that plugs into the relay comes out and looks like this But notice where the purple wire goes on the right is all broken. I am thinking this could be the reason why I’m not getting the blower motor to turn. I ordered a new relay and plug from partsgeek.com and we’ll see if it works.

Trying to get the vent system to work so I can possibly direct heat and/or A/C to the places it needs to go. I have no idea what I'm doing so I'm going to try and take stuff apart and replace anything that looks broken. Day One is take the dash off and look at the duct work and see how I might go about removing it IMG_0673.mp4

Picked up the Blazer and Jeff helped my install CompuShift on my iPhone and then paired it (via Bluetooth) to the HGM controller in the Blazer (behind the glovebox). Drove the Blazer to a restaurant and then home and it worked great! Some missing on occasion but that issue existed before A&M that was created by Alpha Motorsports killing my motor with a horrible tune because its been proven they have no idea what they are doing. Wish someone can tune like A&M installs and tunes transmissions. Jeff at A&M said bring it back in 10 days to look it over and do a checkup on it. Why? Cause he gives a crap which is not like any of the companies I have brought the K5 to. He even gave me the settings on the controller in the event everything gets wiped out I can reset everything based on these images So what's next?? Jeff experienced the "oh sh*t" moment I get when I get the death wobble. So I need to get that fixed before I drive it to far.

Jeff has been awesome working on my Blazer. Last minute finds include: someone cut off the end of this shift linkage because it was hitting the headers so now I can’t shift into L1. Not much I can do to fix this until I pickup a new rod and see if there is a better solution then cutting it off. someone during my journey replaced the fluid (5w30) in the kodiak transfer case with regular transmission fluid. Jeff called the company and they prefer we use Schaffers 5w30 (which no one has), Jeff prefers AmsOil (which no one has), so going with Mobil One for now to get this fixed. So just waiting for oil to arrive and he’s going to drain the trans fluid and replace with 5w30

So a quick update.. the 4L60e transmission is now installed with an HGM controller. Due to supply and demand, everything slowed down to a crawl. Tomorrow I am suppose to pick my Blazer up. Very exciting that my transmission issues may be behind me finally.

Also went ahead and ordered Dakota Digital gauge cluster from Affordable Street Rods since everyone is sold out of the cluster I wanted which you saw my earlier post I made back in 2019. Well it cost more than the $1295 it use to be and now the out the door price with shipping and Michigan tax was $1635.48 but this also includes the GSS-3000 which is the Gear Position Sensor so you can see in the gauge cluster what gear you are in.