I need to add a light to the front of my K5 for trail riding. Been trying to figure out where to mount the light on the front to help me see where I'm going. Thinking of front bumper and using the combo light that does spot and flood. I'd like to add an sPod under the hood of the Blazer so I could connect my AirLockers to (Turn on/off compressor, Turn on/off front locker, Turn on/off rear locker) then I would also add the rigid front bar light. The square holes on my diy4x bumper are 2" which I haven't found any decent light that will light the trail so I'll probably just save those holes for my highlift jack. To the right of the Warn control box I could add a 10" rigid light.. something like the E-Series PRO 10 inch SPOT/FLOOD combo bar. (SKU110313) Even though I like the low profile look of the sr series pro 10 inch spot/flood combo (SKU910313) which is about a hundred dollars cheaper than the eseries pro 10inch shown above. COMPARING SPECs, they look the same For reference, the different beam patterns 11-13836-A_-_E_SR-Series_PRO.pdf

HVAC is working mostly.. it heats up nicely. The issue is the actuator is moving but the door attached isn't moving (like its stuck)... but its not a priority right now since I can at least heat the cabin up. I'm sure I'll need this to work in the summer when I need to cool it down. Some reason heat from the headers, flowmasters, engine I believe help it heat up inside. Brakes are leaking pretty bad after Davison Automotive replaced the front part of the rear brakes and put a new Master Cylinder on. Going to try and bring it in on Thursday to have them fix what they were suppose to fix. K5 is at Mr. Frontend today to get 4 new Ball Joints since there is some play on the drivers side lower and a little play on the right side lower. Since they have to change them just going to have the uppers done as well (estimated cost $1000 using Moog). They suggested a steering stabilizer/dampener but it would be aftermarket. They would prefer I find it and bring it in.

Utilizing Davison Automotive to fix my rear brake lines since I found brake fluid under my Blazer which tells me I have a small brake fluid leak. I checked the Master Cylinder and it didn't appear even low so its probably very small leak. The estimate to replace the rear brake lines is roughly $300-$350 so we'll see what it ends up being. Dropped it off at 7am today and we'll see how it works out. HVAC is an issue for sure. I have replaced everything it feels and still doesn't work.

thinking about moving down from a 6” BDS lift and 37” tires to 4” BDS lift and 35” tires (35" x 12.50" w/15 x 8 and 3-1/2" back spacing) i love my hutchinson beadlock rims so if i need to change rims i will get another set of hutchinson for sure. Tires i’m on the fence… i currently have BFG KO2’s which are practically brand new and i have 5 of them… but do i stay with those or move to something else. i love toyo’s but wil have to see. The BDS lift is close to $2000 and probably is that price with tax. i would just do the install myself. My main concern is the driveshafts. i don’t want to change them. if i have to because they are too long, i may just buy new ones and keep these with the 6” lift with possibly the tires. We’ll see…

Found out I caused issues because I did a code upgrade to v6 while having the handheld plugged and the only way you can upgrade the ECU is unplugging the handheld and using a laptop with USB cable. Step by Step instructions Scott gave me are: Disconnect handheld Plug in USB Cable from laptop to ECU Launch v6 Desktop software click Cancel on the window that pops up CLick on two half circles and then select ECU - Upgrade ECU FW Browse to file HEFI_05001400.eep

Not getting any airflow at the defrosters

So I was driving around one day and something didn't feel right. Like it was struggling to keep going.. like it was about to stall but it would recover and be fine for a bit. Then it started to get worse and I went home and parked it and now it won't start. First thought was spark Pulled a spark plug wire off and attached a spare spark plug to it, wrapped a wire around the threads and grounded it and turned the blazer over and I could very clearly see spark (no issue with spark) Next though is fuel I can see two fuel filters in the path this filter (pictured above) is located in the engine bay this filter (FF3504DL pictured above) is located along the frame rail on the passenger side I changed them both and tried to start the blazer and same results. It sounds like it wants to start and kinda does but it just struggles to stay running then dies. **Not giving up on the idea it could be fuel pressure but need to get a fuel pressure gauge to make sure I'm getting whats required. Next step is to upgrade the FW on the Holly Fuel Injection since thats my troubleshooting is go after what I don't understand since I am unable to troubleshoot it in order to verify its working. Based on the above image, this is the initial Build (6.0 Build 110) which they are up to Build 300 which was released 2023.04.17 IMPORTANT NOTE: You will not be able to plug your laptop into the Holly EFI system without the Holly EFI System USB Cable 558-443 IMG_0791.mov

I believe the issue is the port above the HVAC was plugged into was the Timing Spark vacuum line. So I plugged that up with a rubber helmet and plugged into a T so it matches this diagram a bit closer (missing the check valve and vacuum reservoir) So for less than $30 on Amazon I can get the missing vacuum reservoir (#251 above) and the vacuum check valve to hook this up closer to how its designed. As it sits now I hooked the source vacuum line to the T as it shows in the image close to #7 and when I start the blazer up I can get defroster working but when I change setting to Vent that works but trying to go back to defrost it fails. I am assuming I loose vacuum since I don't have a vacuum reservoir so I ordered them off amazon and we'll see if that helps.

okay replacement heater control installed and blower works, hot/cold works, selector doesn’t seem to work. no difference between defrost, heater, vent. i’m assuming this could be vacuum issue. i traced the source vacuum line coming in on passenger side from right side of carb. going to get a vacuum pressure gauge to see how much vacuum is at carb and start working my way back ACDelco 15-17220/GM 16037769 which is close to impossible to find replacement part Here is the vacuum line coming in from the engine bay on the passenger side Vacuum source was plugged into this port on the carb

I did confirm I have power at BRN [50] with key turned to on and if I jumper from [50] at the selector connector to [64] I have blower motor functioning levels M1, M2 and HI so it feels as though I'm correct assuming the heater control switch is bad?? far left pin is the brown one top is brown so how i jumped over is just use a jumper wire like this then just inserted into the far left brown terminal and alligator clipped to the top where the metal clip is touching the metal of that top brown wire connection I ordered a reconditioned one off eBay for $75 since LMC is backordered and they have no idea when. I checked with a few others and they are all sold out as well. I found some less expensive ones on eBay but they looked like they dug them out of a graveyard so I passed since I don't to have to replace it again. I like the once and done approach. Do it right one time and don't worry about it, especially when you are on a trail in the middle of nowhere by yourself. I'll keep you posted when my new part arrives sometime end of this month (hopefully in time for some memorial weekend trail riding) Attaching images of the removal of the heater control for record keeping

The Purple wire needs to be 12ga wire to motor, the red wire also 12ga is hot at all times, the blue wire is the lower fan speeds from resistor block. If you have selected anything but High or off the blue wire should have power at below 12v. The Blue wire is normally closed path to blower motor through relay. The orange wire powers the relay coil and closes the high blower circuit. Looking at your relay plug I can see there has been high amp draw on the purple wire. This could be a worn out blower motor, bad ground, or dirty tarnished corroded purple wire connections. I am will to bet the purple terminal is loose and tarnished, and needs attention. The wire loom and plug above is handy, but the 2 12ga circuits have the wrong size wire. The terminals can be purchased, Packard type 56 female, they come in 12ga size and 16-14 size you need both if you wish to rewire. With key on select low fan check for voltage on tan wire at resistor block. If you have voltage check the blue wire at resistor block, should a lower voltage. The blue should be same voltage at relay, both terminals blue ,and purple. If this what you find then the wiring to relay is working as designed. Place the fan switch at High the orange wire at relay should show 12v and the purple wire should show the same voltage. If no voltage the relay is bad, if lower voltage the relay has dirty contacts and creating resistance. Either of those results replace relay. to check the resistor block test the voltage at the blue wire in low and medium, if they are different and below 12v it is working. No voltage in high or off on blue wire.

while i am waiting for those parts i need to figure out how to fix this white thing. i’m not sure what it’s supposed to look like when installed correctly

So I pulled the blower motor out and hooked the wire straight up to the battery positive and grounded it and WOW it works. The image above you can see the power terminal on the right. A purple wire was attached to it coming from the rectangle looking relay With this CLOSE UP image you can the purple wire on the right that feeds the blower motor Now I unscrewed the relay and flipped it upside down to figure out whats going on which is shown here Then I discovered the plug that plugs into the relay comes out and looks like this But notice where the purple wire goes on the right is all broken. I am thinking this could be the reason why I’m not getting the blower motor to turn. I ordered a new relay and plug from partsgeek.com and we’ll see if it works.

Check out this helpful diagram provided from another site And then I have these diagrams

Trying to get the vent system to work so I can possibly direct heat and/or A/C to the places it needs to go. I have no idea what I'm doing so I'm going to try and take stuff apart and replace anything that looks broken. Day One is take the dash off and look at the duct work and see how I might go about removing it IMG_0673.mp4

Picked up the Blazer and Jeff helped my install CompuShift on my iPhone and then paired it (via Bluetooth) to the HGM controller in the Blazer (behind the glovebox). Drove the Blazer to a restaurant and then home and it worked great! Some missing on occasion but that issue existed before A&M that was created by Alpha Motorsports killing my motor with a horrible tune because its been proven they have no idea what they are doing. Wish someone can tune like A&M installs and tunes transmissions. Jeff at A&M said bring it back in 10 days to look it over and do a checkup on it. Why? Cause he gives a crap which is not like any of the companies I have brought the K5 to. He even gave me the settings on the controller in the event everything gets wiped out I can reset everything based on these images So what's next?? Jeff experienced the "oh sh*t" moment I get when I get the death wobble. So I need to get that fixed before I drive it to far.

Jeff has been awesome working on my Blazer. Last minute finds include: someone cut off the end of this shift linkage because it was hitting the headers so now I can’t shift into L1. Not much I can do to fix this until I pickup a new rod and see if there is a better solution then cutting it off. someone during my journey replaced the fluid (5w30) in the kodiak transfer case with regular transmission fluid. Jeff called the company and they prefer we use Schaffers 5w30 (which no one has), Jeff prefers AmsOil (which no one has), so going with Mobil One for now to get this fixed. So just waiting for oil to arrive and he’s going to drain the trans fluid and replace with 5w30

So a quick update.. the 4L60e transmission is now installed with an HGM controller. Due to supply and demand, everything slowed down to a crawl. Tomorrow I am suppose to pick my Blazer up. Very exciting that my transmission issues may be behind me finally.

Also went ahead and ordered Dakota Digital gauge cluster from Affordable Street Rods since everyone is sold out of the cluster I wanted which you saw my earlier post I made back in 2019. Well it cost more than the $1295 it use to be and now the out the door price with shipping and Michigan tax was $1635.48 but this also includes the GSS-3000 which is the Gear Position Sensor so you can see in the gauge cluster what gear you are in.

So that PerformaBuilt Trans that I purchased for around $3500 was pure junk. Totally would not recommend buying anything from these con artists. The two year "VERY Limited" warranty (if you buy a torque converter from them otherwise its only one year warranty) works if you drain any fluid out of the trans, pay for wrapping trans in plastic, boxing per the standards they put in place and shipping your transmission to them in PA. Its so expensive to ship the transmission that its cheaper to just have someone else fix the mess they call a trans. Given that the best thing PerformaBuilt transmissions does is take your money with ease without delivering a product for the amount you pay, I'm staying local and I recommend you do the same. Dropped my Blazer off to a company in Michigan that knows old school transmissions. In fact A & M transmissions is the destination for anyone in the state of Michigan for Powerglide 2speed trans and the older transmissions. Of course they work on new transmissions as well. I've been working with a guy named Jeff and he is very knowledgeable and very OCD on making sure its done right and it doesn't matter how long it takes. Todays labor rates are around $99/hr We discussed whether we are going to stick with the 700R4 and focus on why this transmission keeps burning up OR change to a 4L60e trans which is really the same as a 700R4 transmission. In fact the only difference is the 4L60e has an 18-pin electronic connector above the passenger side pan rail vs the 700R4 doesn't have the 18-pin connector but does have the cable connection near the cooler lines on the passenger side. 700R4 PROS Less expensive than 4L60E – no expensive controller needed Easier to install with minimal wiring Popular upgrade support Fits most early chassis Transmission has cable speedometer output – no adapters needed 700R4 CONS Limited torque capacity with early transmissions TV cable is difficult to adjust for proper pressure and up-shifts Must use pressure gauge to set TV cable for proper part throttle up-shift Often requires custom TV cable bracket and connection on carburetor or EFI Custom WOT shift points require governor changes Limited to converter lock-up only in overdrive (4th gear) Needs special brake light switch to cut power to unlock converter when brake is applied May require additional low-vacuum switch to cut out converter lockup under heavy part-throttle load – and then may cycle back and forth – requiring additional delay relay 4L60E PROS Full and finite electronic control over all aspects of shift control, including WOT Easy changes to part-throttle shift points and line pressure Easy setup for desired converter lockup – can lock in third Can tune shift points from the interior – no need to crawl under the car Can buy EFI packages with transmission control as part of EFI – saves money Increased torque capacity with 4L65-70-75 versions LS engines can use the LS 4L60E – no adapters necessary Speedometer calibration is simple 4L60E CONS Most expensive – must add separate controller – can cost up to $1,200 Needs a TPS input – must add with carburetor Requires adapter to run either electric speedometer or motor to spin cable speedometer Cooler lines use push-in clip connectors that often leak – should replace with a more traditional connector – AN or inverted flare Told Jeff @ A & M Trans that my decision is to go to the 4l60e transmission. He's now doing the research and gathering parts.