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Swap 700R4 to 4L60e

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So that PerformaBuilt Trans that I purchased for around $3500 was pure junk.  Totally would not recommend buying anything from these con artists.  The two year "VERY Limited" warranty (if you buy a torque converter from them otherwise its only one year warranty) works if you drain any fluid out of the trans, pay for wrapping trans in plastic, boxing per the standards they put in place and shipping your transmission to them in PA.  Its so expensive to ship the transmission that its cheaper to just have someone else fix the mess they call a trans.

Given that the best thing PerformaBuilt transmissions does is take your money with ease without delivering a product for the amount you pay, I'm staying local and I recommend you do the same.

Dropped my Blazer off to a company in Michigan that knows old school transmissions.  In fact A & M transmissions is the destination for anyone in the state of Michigan for Powerglide 2speed trans and the older transmissions.  Of course they work on new transmissions as well.  I've been working with a guy named Jeff and he is very knowledgeable and very OCD on making sure its done right and it doesn't matter how long it takes.  Todays labor rates are around $99/hr

We discussed whether we are going to stick with the 700R4 and focus on why this transmission keeps burning up OR change to a 4L60e trans which is really the same as a 700R4 transmission.  In fact the only difference is the 4L60e has an 18-pin electronic connector above the passenger side pan rail vs the 700R4 doesn't have the 18-pin connector but does have the cable connection near the cooler lines on the passenger side.

700R4 PROS

  • Less expensive than 4L60E – no expensive controller needed
  • Easier to install with minimal wiring
  • Popular upgrade support
  • Fits most early chassis
  • Transmission has cable speedometer output – no adapters needed

700R4 CONS

  • Limited torque capacity with early transmissions
  • TV cable is difficult to adjust for proper pressure and up-shifts
  • Must use pressure gauge to set TV cable for proper part throttle up-shift
  • Often requires custom TV cable bracket and connection on carburetor or EFI
  • Custom WOT shift points require governor changes
  • Limited to converter lock-up only in overdrive (4th gear)
  • Needs special brake light switch to cut power to unlock converter when brake is applied
  • May require additional low-vacuum switch to cut out converter lockup under heavy part-throttle load – and then may cycle back and forth – requiring additional delay relay

4L60E PROS

  • Full and finite electronic control over all aspects of shift control, including WOT
  • Easy changes to part-throttle shift points and line pressure
  • Easy setup for desired converter lockup – can lock in third
  • Can tune shift points from the interior – no need to crawl under the car
  • Can buy EFI packages with transmission control as part of EFI – saves money
  • Increased torque capacity with 4L65-70-75 versions
  • LS engines can use the LS 4L60E – no adapters necessary
  • Speedometer calibration is simple

4L60E CONS

  • Most expensive – must add separate controller – can cost up to $1,200
  • Needs a TPS input – must add with carburetor
  • Requires adapter to run either electric speedometer or motor to spin cable speedometer
  • Cooler lines use push-in clip connectors that often leak – should replace with a more traditional connector – AN or inverted flare

Told Jeff @ A & M Trans that my decision is to go to the 4l60e transmission.  He's now doing the research and gathering parts.

 

  • 7 months later...
  • Author

So a quick update..  the 4L60e transmission is now installed with an HGM controller.  Due to supply and demand, everything slowed down to a crawl.

Tomorrow I am suppose to pick my Blazer up.  Very exciting that my transmission issues may be behind me finally.

  • Author

Jeff has been awesome working on my Blazer.  Last minute finds include:

someone cut off the end of this shift linkage because it was hitting the headers so now I can’t shift into L1.  Not much I can do to fix this until I pickup a new rod and see if there is a better solution then cutting it off.

someone during my journey replaced the fluid (5w30) in the kodiak transfer case with regular transmission fluid.  Jeff called the company and they prefer we use Schaffers 5w30 (which no one has), Jeff prefers AmsOil (which no one has), so going with Mobil One for now to get this fixed.

So just waiting for oil to arrive and he’s going to drain the trans fluid and replace with 5w30

  • Author

Picked up the Blazer and Jeff helped my install CompuShift on my iPhone and then paired it (via Bluetooth) to the HGM controller in the Blazer (behind the glovebox).

Drove the Blazer to a restaurant and then home and it worked great!

Some missing on occasion but that issue existed before A&M that was created by Alpha Motorsports killing my motor with a horrible tune because its been proven they have no idea what they are doing.  Wish someone can tune like A&M installs and tunes transmissions.

Jeff at A&M said bring it back in 10 days to look it over and do a checkup on it.  Why?  Cause he gives a crap which is not like any of the companies I have brought the K5 to.  He even gave me the settings on the controller in the event everything gets wiped out I can reset everything based on these images IMG_1330.thumb.jpeg.a4c0159cfb8359a81458e3c03478ae55.jpeg

IMG_1331.thumb.jpeg.e0b7470bacc3d0c28666cdf97bbb2572.jpeg

IMG_1332.thumb.jpeg.44db3c6e3bc057dadd852824723703a4.jpeg

So what's next??

Jeff experienced the "oh sh*t" moment I get when I get the death wobble.  So I need to get that fixed before I drive it to far.

Edited by wildweaselmi

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