wildweaselmi

Waiting for parts to show up today to continue project. Things to do: Headers Install Fuel Pump Upgrade in Tank (full tank of fuel) Install new DUI distributor Install EFI Computer and run wires

Engine is out and now getting new engine ready to go in Since headman headers are on back order until sometime in October and I'm not waiting that long, moved to Hooker Competition Headers

Well looks like we will have to upgrade the fuel pump. The stock in tank fuel pump only puts out about 9-12lbs of pressure and the new fuel injection needs a lot more. So since we have to drop the tank anyways, should I upgrade to a Dorman (576-312) 31 gallon tank and throw in an aeromotive electric fuel pump that can support up to 90lbs of pressure. It's only about 200 for the both from summit

Dropped the Blazer off Monday at Al's, gave my credit card to Al Serra yesterday (Tuesday) to pay for the engine which they delivered to Al yesterday so now I wait like a nervous father in the waiting room for my baby to come ALIVE! The Transmission rebuild of the 700R4 feels solid except the high stall converter makes it feel like it just won't go but I know that because of the little 180hp stock motor. I'm sure once this 324hp stock motor gets put in, it should move just fine. End of next week (22nd or 23rd) the Blazer will head over to Unlimited Offroad for some axle repairs. Current GM 10bolt won't be able to handle the big tires and power. Currently running 3:73 gear and moving up to either 4:56 or 4:88 on 1 ton axles. Using front calipers from a 73-88 pickup truck for rear brakes (since they are so common) and going with ARB for lockers front and back with a big enough compressor to air my tires up which will be on Hutchinson Wheels ($438/wheel 17x9 with a -12 offset to keep everything in wheel well). Still rocking the 37.5 BF Goodrich KO2's During the axle swap, I'll need high steer installed (about $700) and the axles will need Reid Knuckles which are pricey but I think worth every penny. Get a new Driveshaft, front and rear, from Tom Woods. Current driveshafts are too short since the lift and loosing fluid and getting a vibration.

Just got the price of Engine from my buddy at Al Serra and it looks to be about $5000 for the HT 383 Engine. Our friend Al will help me swap motors for $500 labor which is a steal. So I have to figure out ($3800) $500 1 5/8" Hedman Headers LongTube - HED-63890 $162 Moroso Spark Plug Wires - 73602 $600 Distributor (unknown what we need) $2500 Holly Terminator Stealth - PART# 550-441K

Another update that is long over due. Not much has changed Frayley put the transmission in and now the K5 is a dog since the converter is such a high stall it feels like the trans is slipping. Really need to change from the 3.73 gear ratio to something like 4.56 or 4.88 or ideally I need a new engine. The factory 350 only puts out about 180hp and this trans is built for 300-500hp with tons of torque Steering Box did get fixed. Here are some before photos.. Haven't taken any after photos but I'll do that. Brett did a fantastic job repairing this horrible welding. Two tasks I have to complete to make the blazer usable/driveable 1. Axle upgrades (big tires and the GM 10 bolt don't go well together. It apparently pops the C clips that hold the axle shaft from sliding out.) 2. New engine. This engine is old, tired and needs an upgrade. Let's talk AXLE's first FRONT: Dana 60 is my choice A high-pinion Dana 60 front axle is one of the top upgrades for truck and SUV wheelers across the board. The 9.75-inch ring gear provides plenty of beef for running 39-inch and larger tires, and since it is a high-pinion front, the pinion churns on the stronger drive-side of the ring gear. The ’99-’04 models have a less invasive differential casting, which makes them a little easier to work with, but, most were equipped with smaller 30-spline outers. In 2005, Ford equipped the Super Duty platform with a radius arm front suspension, which makes the later units easy to spot. The later series Super Duty Dana 60s are fitted with slightly larger/stronger outer components, but the ’99-’04 axles are still easier to come by. All ’99-current SD front 60s are ball joint-type axles. Maybe the biggest drawback is the unitbearing hub. The plus side of the unitbearing is that some stock and custom unitbearings can be made to work with ABS, and conversion kits to a more serviceable spindle-style outer are offered in the aftermarket. Another challenge is the 8-on-170 metric bolt pattern, which isn’t an issue if you opt for a Sterling 10.5-inch rear axle. Custom unitbearings or kits that convert to standard hubs can be opted with a more traditional 8-on-6½-inch bolt pattern, so don’t let the metric pattern hold you back. The aftermarket is rapidly growing for the Super Duty 60, with high-steer arms and heavy-duty ball joint options now available from multiple sources. REAR: GM 14 Bolt Found under ¾- and 1-ton fullsize GM truck and SUVs since 1973, the sheer number of 14-bolt axles produced continues to keep the cost down. The full-float rear axle has a max torque rating of 6,242 pounds, a beefy 10½-inch ring gear, and a massive 1¾-inch pinion that receives an additional bearing to prevent it from deflecting. Later models can be found with disc brakes, but your more common specimens will have the obnoxiously large and heavy drum brakes. There are plenty of disc brake conversions, so don’t let the drums slow you down. The biggest downfall of the 14-bolt is the size of the differential housing. Depending on which casting you come across, there are a few methods of shaving or chopping the bottom of the diff to gain ground clearance. Aftermarket support is excellent for the 14-bolt and the 1.5-inch, 30-spline axleshafts are pretty stout from the factory. If you need width, look for the 73-inch-wide van axle. While there is a narrow 63-inch-wide version, the more common ranges span between 65-67 inches. Now let's talk Engine's After much research and dreaming of what could be I have decided to go with a GM Crate Motor HT-383 Stroker Motor Looks like it will cost about $6000 to get it running if I do the labor of taking out old and putting in new.