wildweaselmi

So that PerformaBuilt Trans that I purchased for around $3500 was pure junk. Totally would not recommend buying anything from these con artists. The two year "VERY Limited" warranty (if you buy a torque converter from them otherwise its only one year warranty) works if you drain any fluid out of the trans, pay for wrapping trans in plastic, boxing per the standards they put in place and shipping your transmission to them in PA. Its so expensive to ship the transmission that its cheaper to just have someone else fix the mess they call a trans. Given that the best thing PerformaBuilt transmissions does is take your money with ease without delivering a product for the amount you pay, I'm staying local and I recommend you do the same. Dropped my Blazer off to a company in Michigan that knows old school transmissions. In fact A & M transmissions is the destination for anyone in the state of Michigan for Powerglide 2speed trans and the older transmissions. Of course they work on new transmissions as well. I've been working with a guy named Jeff and he is very knowledgeable and very OCD on making sure its done right and it doesn't matter how long it takes. Todays labor rates are around $99/hr We discussed whether we are going to stick with the 700R4 and focus on why this transmission keeps burning up OR change to a 4L60e trans which is really the same as a 700R4 transmission. In fact the only difference is the 4L60e has an 18-pin electronic connector above the passenger side pan rail vs the 700R4 doesn't have the 18-pin connector but does have the cable connection near the cooler lines on the passenger side. 700R4 PROS Less expensive than 4L60E – no expensive controller needed Easier to install with minimal wiring Popular upgrade support Fits most early chassis Transmission has cable speedometer output – no adapters needed 700R4 CONS Limited torque capacity with early transmissions TV cable is difficult to adjust for proper pressure and up-shifts Must use pressure gauge to set TV cable for proper part throttle up-shift Often requires custom TV cable bracket and connection on carburetor or EFI Custom WOT shift points require governor changes Limited to converter lock-up only in overdrive (4th gear) Needs special brake light switch to cut power to unlock converter when brake is applied May require additional low-vacuum switch to cut out converter lockup under heavy part-throttle load – and then may cycle back and forth – requiring additional delay relay 4L60E PROS Full and finite electronic control over all aspects of shift control, including WOT Easy changes to part-throttle shift points and line pressure Easy setup for desired converter lockup – can lock in third Can tune shift points from the interior – no need to crawl under the car Can buy EFI packages with transmission control as part of EFI – saves money Increased torque capacity with 4L65-70-75 versions LS engines can use the LS 4L60E – no adapters necessary Speedometer calibration is simple 4L60E CONS Most expensive – must add separate controller – can cost up to $1,200 Needs a TPS input – must add with carburetor Requires adapter to run either electric speedometer or motor to spin cable speedometer Cooler lines use push-in clip connectors that often leak – should replace with a more traditional connector – AN or inverted flare Told Jeff @ A & M Trans that my decision is to go to the 4l60e transmission. He's now doing the research and gathering parts.

Had to fix a few things Both CV Axles (purchased from PartsGeek) 555 Balljoints from PartsGeek 555 Idler Arm from PartsGeek Clutch Master & Slave Cylinder from Marlin Crawler ASIN Clutch and a Flywheel from Marlin Crawler Noticing gas leak around where the gas tank is.. need to check into that Also want to change the basic gauge cluster to one with a tach from an SR5 model. Clusters on eBay for anywhere from $140-$220 but you need to know if you have an electronic speedo or cable ran speedo. Need to bring the truck in the garage and address the gas leak first. A new Toyota gas tank runs around $700 but I believe I can fix it for less but unfortunately I just filled the sucker up. Note there was no gas leak until I filled it up so its probably a hole somewhere near the top of the tank.

So I acquired this 1994 Toyota T100 DX Longbed 4x4 with the 3.0L engine and Manual 5spd Trans. Runs good and it appears to have had the timing belt and water pump replaced and a fresh tune up but it idling high. Clutch pedal doesn't disengage. You push the pedal to the floor and it doesn't return to the original position. The bed is pretty rusty on the outside. The bed itself seems okay. Frontend is loose (needs balljoints and possibly idler arm)

My family and I would love to begin overlanding based on all the forums and youtube videos we watch about Overlanding. We are in Michigan outside Flint and was curious if anyone has suggestions where to go do some Overlanding in Michigan?

Looks like I found my snow plow this winter.

INTERIOR TASKS Fix Intermittent Wipers (should just be a new lever but could require a new wiper motor). Also need to get the washer fluid solid so I can wash off any mud or dirt HVAC (currently don't really get much air flow so need to pull out the ducts and see if got a mouse nest or if blower motor is dying or even if the flappers aren't working) Replace Padding, Carpeting, Side Panels and install Sound Deadener. Install Rear 3 point seat belts Look into install rollbar to attach rear seatbelts to and potentially boat speakers for when the top if off EXTERIOR TASKS Transmission Fix/Repair or Replace Bodywork (paint) Leaf Springs (squeaky)

Currently in a holding pattern until Alpha Motorsports is finished getting the Blazer running solid

Tomorrow (2021-07-20) getting my two front seats fixed so they have some padding. I think a spring or something is poking the passenger in the ass and the drivers side feels as though a big man use to drive the truck and a big sag in the middle of the seat. Anyhow, its not super comfy at the moment so if I could get both seats re-done, I'll be happy.

Its been a bit so let me give some updates since June 9th.. a lot has happened. 2021-05-25: Brought the truck to DHD (Dirty Hooker Diesel) and while there they did the following: Diagnosed why it was always spilling out black smoke: $125 (labor:125 parts:0) Replaced bad stock turbo with a Danville 63.5mm VGT-N, billet coolant block off-n, up-pipe gasket and blots-N, turbo oil feed banjo-N: $3463.92 (labor:1250 parts:2213.92) Replaced upper and lower balljoints on both sides with Kryptonite balljoints: $962.50 (labor:962.50) Performed a wheel alignment: $70 (labor:70) installed MaxTow Gauges: $375 (labor:375) Diagnosed Low Rail Pressure and replaced fuel test port cap w/NTP-N: $819.99 (labor:800 parts:19.99) TOTAL: $6056.44 2021-06-29: Purchased the DSP5_LBZ tune with the EGR delete from MotorOps: $687.75 TOTAL: $687.75 Today (2021-07-12): picked up my truck from Hank Graff Service work done which included: Replacing Gear Shifter Lever since the Tow Haul button was stuck open (meaning it wasn't engaging tow haul): $232.10 (labor:153.77 parts:78.33) multi-point vehicle inspection (including video): $0.00 note: no issues found with anything on the truck Performed FULL drive line service which included front and rear differential and transfer case service with BG products: $285.85 (labor:100.80 parts:185.05) Replaced both Thermostats: $429.79 (labor: 301.61 parts: 128.18) Performed BG Cooling System Service which includes flush of complete cooling system, replace all coolant, inspect hoses and check for correct freeze protection: $149.17 (labor:100.55 parts:48.62) Performed Oil & Filter change using GM Delvac Oil and A/C Delco Oil Filter: $70.00 (labor:20.75 parts:49.25) TOTAL: $1196.28 So yea I spent some money on my truck in the last couple of months.

Talked to Randy today and they added the part but said it got installed wrong but they fixed it. They are moving mechanics from one project to another since they are short handed. I did ask him if he could video the dyno and he said he would try but no guarantee since they are swamped. I’ll chat with them when I get back into town so probably Friday

Talked to Rich today around 2 and he said new turbo is in, they are working on the ball joints and getting the alignment done this afternoon. Tomorrow (Thursday) all they have left is the gauges. Right now it feels pretty positive I’m getting my truck sometime tomorrow.

Just dropped my truck off at Dirty Diesel Hooker to get new turbo installed, ball joints and the maxtow gauges.

Dropped the Blazer off at Alpha Motorsports yesterday to see if they can tune it so it doesn't stall when its cold and maybe get it to not diesel when it shifts into 4th. Flat Rate of $100/hr labor 2 hr estimate to diagnose the engine issues I also asked them if they have time if they could look into the suspension but my primary focus is to get it to run good. Been talking on the phone with a guy named Randy. Very nice and polite and very up front with costs and work that needs to be done.

This was a great video that I wanted to share of some Full Size vehicles hitting the Rubicon which is so well known for Jeeps tackling it but not so well known for Full Size monsters tackling the obstacle.