wildweaselmi

Now on to the next thing 1. Steering box needs some fixing 2. Transmission change 3. Axles (GM 14 bolt in rear and Dana 60 front) 4. 383 stricken truck motor with holly terminator TBI carb

Here is a lesson learned. Double check all your parts before you start the install or you may discover after your blazer is all apart that you have springs from a 2007 2wd truck for your 91 k5 and let me tell ya, not even close. So put it all back together looks like it did Ended up letting Vehicle Accesories put the lift on after my frustration of wrong parts. They charged me $700 (dropped it off Tuesday at closing time and picked up for day at noon) Cruised over to Belle Tire and they already had tires mounted and they put some kind of beads inside so it keeps the tire balanced without the need of weights. They tried to do an alignment and had issues getting the steering wheel to match which I later fixed at home on my own. Went with 37" x 12.50 be Goodrich KO2 tires on a inexpensive 17" x 9" steel rim with a -12 offset

Just got off the phone with Tim and his daughter Shari at Frayley and he is building me a 700R4 transmission with mild shift kit, to attach to my NP241C transfer case, that can handle up to about 550hp and install it for me for $1700 As far as the speedo correction, he can't do anything since its by wire (electronic) but recommended going to Specmo Transmission should be ready in a week

Reached out to Dan at Belle Tire and he checked on price of some Toyo Open Road GT 37" x 17" tires ($1300 out the door). Check out the tread on these. also reached out to Frayley's Transmission to see what the cost would be to rebuild the 700R4 Trans (actually the 4L60 but not the 4L60e) and put a mild shif kit in and that would be utilizing the stock NP241 C Transfer Case. Final stop in the dream world is Unlimited Offroad. Aaron is checking into cost for a Front Axle: Dana60 with 4:56, 1350 Yoke and ARB Locker Rear Axle: GM 14bolt with 4:56, 1350 Yoke and Eaton Detroit Locker Labor to install both

Ok, getting real now. What I really needed first was/is a suspension since the leaf springs are busted and the shocks are shot. Did a lot of research and narrowed it down to Zone Offroad (which uses someone else' springs, I think BDS) or ORD (offroad design) or BDS Suspension. I chose BDS because of all the research I have read, no one ever says anything bad about there suspension kits besides they are priced higher than others but they have the best warranty (lifetime). They offer 2.5", 4", 6" and 8" lift kits for my 91 Chevy K5 Blazer. Today I ordered up a BDS 6" Suspension Kit (Order# 70680) which includes: Fox 2.0 performance series shocks have been tuned and tested by both Fox and BDS Suspension to maximize performance specific to each application and to every BDS Suspension system. The basic shock design is based on proven Fox Racing Shox race products, but re-designed to maximize the ride quality, handling, and control of your BDS equipped truck or jeep, whether on or off the road. Part# (front)98224650 (rear)98224639 Collapsed: (front)15.8" (rear)18.45" Extended: (front)26.2" (rear)30.05" Diameter: (front)2-1/4" (rear)2-3/8" Top Mount: (front/rear)EB1 Bot Mount: (front/rear)EB1 Black shock boots to protect the shock shaft and seal from dirt & debris while adding color to your vehicle's undercarriage. These are packaged boots and include shock ties. BDS Glide-Ride leaf springs will reduce axle wrap and create a more controlled and stable feel when towing. These springs are covered by the BDS No Fine Print Warranty. Actual leaf spring may not be exactly as shown in photo. Bushings are not included when ordering these leaf springs separately. Order one bushing kit per spring. Bolt Kits (Front & Rear) All bolt kits come with Grade 8 bolts, thru-hardened washers, and prevailing torque nuts. All fasteners are yellow zinc plated. Frame Support Kit. It is very common for the frame of a leaf spring Chevy to crack where the steering box attaches to the frame. This weld on support will eliminate those concerns. Bolt Kits (Front & Rear) All bolt kits come with Grade 8 bolts, thru-hardened washers, and prevailing torque nuts. All fasteners are yellow zinc plated. Anti-Sway Bar Shackle Link Kit. This link kit is designed for 6-8" of lift. The new, unique sway bar links convert the axle mount of the front sway bar to a shackle style link. This frees up the suspension to travel without binding by working with the non-vertical motion of a high-arched lift spring. The shackle sway bar link design uses a large hourglass polyurethane bushing at the axle and includes new 3/4" mounting bolts. Adjustable Drag Link. This adjustable drag link adds 2" of drop to your steering linkage to improve steering geometry and help correct tie rod end angles. Base Kit includes Transfer Case Drop kit.

While I'm thinking of it, want to jot down so notes on the engine and trans. Possible engine replacement GM Performance LS 376/515 HP LS3 Carbureted - $6910 (GM Performance Parts #19301359) DR525 Accessory Drive System - $414 (GM Performance Parts #: 19329418) Better yet I need AC and Power Steering 19155067 - CPP Accessory Drive System With A/C - Fits LS2, LS3 & LS7 Engines - $832

Long over due update... Bearings, not the easiest to find USA made. I went with what I could get. Bearings didn't look too bad but I replaced them anyhow. I believe why the thought the bearings were bad was you could grab the tire while the Blazer was jacked up and you could move the tire back and forth (side to side) which is usually a bad bearing. I believe the issue was the nut holding the bearing on was only finger tight and it should be tightened to around 100 ft lbs. The lock nut not the nut touching the bearing, that nut should be tightened then loosened or you'll burn up your bearing. Put the new EBC rotors and pads on.. look good and excellent braking power at the moment. So what's next? I really wanted to get the Blazer painted but I have to fix the suspension. The 33" tires are grabbing the fenders and chewing them up on the stock suspension. Going with a BDS Suspension 6" lift which should look "okay" with 33" but sets me up for the ability to go to 35" tires later. Not using blocks but there soft ride springs which should help with maintaining a nice ride. Then we can look at Paint and Interior work. Probably hold off on Paint until next Spring (2017) and work on the Interior during the winter. That suspension kit is being put on before winter... hopefully. Just gotta sell the Jeep

Got the rotors and pads.. waiting for a couple of parts to show up for the bearings since I have to take all that off anyhow to replace the rotors.

Just ordered EBC Stage 3 Rotors and Brake Pads from EBC for $296.35 Now wheel bearings... Timken or National or SKF (or are they all the same?) I ordered from Summit, Timken 6408 - Timken Wheel Bearings for $37.94 and since I wanted the free shipping I also ordered a replacement Dorman 49284 - Dorman Turn Signal Levers for $68.97 since mine is broke. Once I get my wheel bearings, I should have what I need to fix the front end... partially. I still need $1800 for the Pro Comp 4 Inch Lift Kit with MX-6 Shocks (EXPK1053BMX).

Update... Price to get exterior painted. It looks like someone did a very cheap paint job (not removing moldings) paint is chipping off (probably didn't stick good to the wax underneath. Anyhow, Maaco said they will give it there best paint job, body work making it look like factory with it baked on for $5700 and they'll need it for a month. Just had the suspension double-checked at Mr. Front End today to confirm what I saw. They found a bent front spring shackle and the rubber grommet on the front springs are deteriorated. Both of these are fixed with a Pro Comp Suspension Lift ($1800). Also found are some bad wheel bearings in the front which I'll do when I replace the front rotors with EBC Rotors ($300 for the pair on Summit) and EBC pads ($80).

Just pulled in the driveway and parked the new Blazer. Had fun going through Memphis then down to Tupelo, MS to pick the K5 up then headed to Nashville for the day and night then home bound on Sunday. Sunday was a long drive in a truck I wasn't familiar with but it ran good. Max speed was 80 comfortably and horsepower wise or that 700R4 would have to keep downshifting to please my demand for power. So I didn't realize how bad the interior was, its not so good. Dash pad is cracked, sliced and butchered. It appears they were trying to replace the speakers maybe since those are the only areas that are hacked. So new dash pad is required. Driver side seat back support is broke so you have a gangster lean to the right if you want to or not. So new seats are needed. Nothing else major except I want to change the wine color to all black which means a complete replacement of the interior which is going to be hell and expensive but look bad ass. Maybe even use billet for accents. On the exterior all I see is the paint job is crap so I'll remove the moldings and stickers from the windows. Probably get a decent paint job at Maaco but keeping it white. Once interior is done and then the paint job is done then I'll start looking at suspension lift, possible a new engine like this monster

Heading down this weekend to pickup a 1991 Chevy Blazer K5 Right off the start I need shocks and 33's balanced. My goal is to change them to 3/4 ton axles (roughly $3100 for front G2 D44 with eaton e-locker and another $3400 for back G2 D44 with eaton e-locker) Also I want to change the interior to all black and it desperately needs a paint job (not decided color... leaning towards blue like my cutlass) Some interior pictures the seller sent me Those seat belt holders in the ceiling need to be removed when taking the top off. It requires a torx bit T35H or T40H or T47

Someone asked, why don't you have RV's on your site. They have gears, fuel, oil and can be a pain in the ass to manage. I didn't have a good response so I created a section just for RV's which translates to Recreational Vehicle. Some people love there RV's and truthfully they all use similar components from other vehicles found on this website so they do belong. For example, motor home have either the Ford V-10 or the Chevy 6.2L or the most popular option, the Chrysler Cummins Diesel which is pretty much the standard in every diesel pusher out there. If you are looking for other blogs that focus on the RVers then click here Maybe your looking for a club focused on RV or want to start an RV club, well click here to see all existing RV clubs and you'll see the option to create a club for free as well... just have to be registered.

Are you one of guys or girls that want to travel the world on a motorcycle or hit the trails on your dirt bike. We feel ya and that's why we have some clubs and blogs focused just on Bikes. Check out the Blogs that focus on Motorcycles by clicking here People have created some bike clubs that you may want to join or create your own club. All of the clubs focused on bikes can be found here

What is the street scene? It's focusing on muscle cars, low riders, Dairy Queeners (offroad looking trucks that don't drive even on dirt roads), drag racing, circle tracks and more. You probably get the gist. The street community is all about beauty on the asphalt. Personally I've always been a huge muscle car fan. Went through my phases of owning several classic muscle cars. Here you can share your projects or builds. Talk in the garage and maybe help someone out if they have questions. Life is too short, so get off the couch and enjoy life while you can since we don't know what tomorrow brings. Check out the Street Scene Blogs on Gear Crushers by clicking here Check out the different clubs on Gear Crushers focused on the Street Scene by clicking here