Did a check on status (anxious to get some driving in before snow)

axles are almost done when with 4:56 gears from 3:73

The front Dana 60

The rear GM 14bolt

 

I've been told they will be installed and ready for the road by 10/17

Looks like a good place to put the switches

Not starting this yet but I need to fix the gauges in my K5 but having trouble finding the bezel for a 91 as well as gauges.

Here are some options I found on the internet

LMC Truck has these New Vintage Gauges (made in Detroit) that I really like the looks of.  It gives me a sense of factory look

 

I have used Digital Dakota in my 72 cutlass and they looked pretty good and worked but what a pain in the butt to install. Lots of wires for the module, the actual back of the gauges was a cat5 cable.  It just took a long time but everyone swears by Digital Dakota gauges and what is mentioned most is the lifetime warranty.

And I think my favorite from Digital Dakota, the HDX option

What's your opinion

A. NVU

B. Digital

C. VHX

D. HDX

Driveshafts are ordered from Tom Woods.. Hopefully here by Thursday.

Just learned front end Dana 60 is from a dodge

 High steer is done. Waiting on speedy sleeve, different calipers, exhaust (super 40 flow masters, center in and out, Kelly is doing the work) driveshafts are in.

shoild have it back Wednesday 

On its way to the exhaust shop

Exhaust is on (sounds good but a bit louder than expected with the Flowmaster Super 40's)

Still have Transmission issues even after it spent a week at Frayley's...  they did discover the torque converter was shot so the new Hughes 3 stage is working good in comparison.

Trans Department I need to figure out where the leak is coming from since I'm seeing drops of trans fluid on my garage floor

Engine Department I need to get some help figuring out how to tune the Holly Stealth Terminator EFI (apparently its more difficult than predicted)

Ordered a spare tire cover custom for GearCrushers

So an update.

Engine

Learned that the performance issue was due to not getting the required 43psi fuel pressure to the fuel injection. Why? It appears the tank was rusted up pretty good inside the tank. Flakes and rust scales were attaching to the sock and restrictin that needed fuel pressure.

solution:

upgrade tank from 25gal to 31gal which included replacing sending unit as well as replacing fuel pump and fuel filter in the event it got any of that dirt/rust from tank.

Transmission

So very disappointed in Frayley Transmission in Pontiac. They use to be the shop to go to for transmission work but this trans is been there multiple times and every time I have issues.

1st time it was a bad torque converter

2nd time it was something to do with lockup not working so he drilled a hole? It took more than a week to fix.

Now it's throwIng fluid everywhere... So gotta go back.

Suspension

Unlimited Offroad needs to work on axles. Horrible vibration when u r moving. Some say that you need an angle on the driveshaft and that it can't just go straight in. Simple fix would be to change the shim

Some think it's back lash is set incorrect

Unlimited said motor mounts was the issue but no one else can see that issue

The UD1 front Bumper for DIY4x with a mock install and now it needs to go get powder coated the satin black so it matches the back.

some negative comments on the 2" square holes. This was suppose to be for lights but the angle is wrong for flush mount. Hole is to small for any square light. Looks like I'll be using it for hi-lift jack mounting point instead and coming up with something for my lights.

On a side note, the hutchinson bead lock rims came in.  Obviously they'll look way nicer on the K5 then in the box.

So, somehow the K5 got pushed back in line and hopefully they'll look at it tomorrow.  They are still waiting for the front bumper to come back from powder coating but they need to fix the vibration that could be from the rear brake caliper even though I have a feeling the issue is more in relation to the driveline but we'll find out.

Once the K5 is in the garage, items that need to be accomplished:

1. Fix rear brake caliper
2. Fix Vibration (especially at freeway speeds)
3. Mount the 37.5" KO2's on the 5 Hutchinson Rims
4. Mount the new Powder Coated Front Bumper
5. Install the 12,000lb winch which includes remote module and hard wired to dash

I'll need to bring the truck down and get the old ProComp Rims and old front bumper.

Motor mount drivers side is hitting frame.  Dealership no longer can get part but did tell me replacement part number is 14071967

Front Bumper has been powder coated and winch installed. Still need to move box to engine compartment but it requires more wire.

Transmission shop had it for a week. They replaced the trans with another 700r4 rebuilt trans and same vibration at 3rd and 4th.

They also replaced everything in the np241c transfer case to include a new chain. Only thing not replaced is the output drive. They looked for a replacement transfer case but since this is a one year only transfer case (passenger side drop and VSS included) it's a difficult task which they couldn't accomplish.

So transmission shop is done.

When I got the truck home, I had a weird thought if it could be a wrong flex plate. On the GM 383 engines it has to be an externally balanced flex plate so I popped the cover off and see it is externally balanced as it should be.

so I looked all over Craigslist and eBay for a replacement transfer case for a 91 which would have the VSS. Found some maybes and then I ran into KodiakTruck.com and he had one. With shipping it cost me around $900 but I have a solid case on the way.

Will keep you posted. If this ends up being a fail then my next move is a new monster transmission which comes with a new torque converter which would be the last two items to replace then it's back to Unlimited to check axles and drive shafts, again, only if issue is still there.

 

Today I paid my buddy Al $200 to help me swap transfer case I got from kodiactruck. Hoping this would remove the horrible vibration I get when going at a decent speed (65-80mph).

Had to put 5w30 full synthetic motor oil in the np231c transfer case per what kodiactruck required. I used valvoline and it took 3qts.

this didn't fix vibration. Next guess is torque converter and possibly trans from monster

Looks like before I purchase a new transmission and torque converter from Monster Transmission my buddy Al and I are going to do some quick troubleshooting to make sure I'm not just spending $3000 for no reason.

Our plan is to remove the front drive shaft and see if the noise/vibration goes away (I don't think it will have any difference since the front axle isn't locked and the transfer case is in 2H which means the front driveshaft isn't even turning)

Next we remove the rear driveshaft and put the front one back in and see if the vibration goes away. (this will definitly help identify the rear axle or even the Tom Woods driveshaft as being part of the vibration. This also could tell me if the angle from driveshaft to rear axles isn't good enough)

If the vibration doesn't change after removing the driveshafts then it has to be the torque converter.  Currently I have the stage 3 hughes performance torque converter for 2300-2500 stall.  I would keep the same stall but possibly go with a different manufacturer

Okay, now Holidays are over its time for an update...  not much has happened.

Al, helped me getting some heat working (needed a new blower motor and some switch).  He also helped me getting my washer fluid to pump some washer fluid on my window to clear off some mud (bad wiper delay module).

Vibration is a remaining issue.  He did locate a bad transmission mount (crazy to think the transmission place didn't discover that since its only been in and out how many times?) but Al did the right thing a replaced it to hopefully help with some of the vibration.

He took off the front driveshaft and the vibration seemed to decrease but still noticeable (very noticeable when four wheel drive is engaged and running at low speeds).  So the thought is pinion angle is wrong which I brought up to Unlimited Offroad before when I noticed the vibration but they said it was first because of a rear brake caliper too tight on the rotor which warped it causing the vibration so they fixed that. Then they said it was transfer case or transmission (but don't forget they said it was the motor mounts before which I never had issues before, only after new axles have been installed did vibration issues start occurring).

So to address the vibration I'm going to a different offroad shop. I'm trying my luck at Michigan Offroad Center in Lansing (about an hour drive for me)  we'll see what they have to say on Monday.

Also Al noticed when Unlimited Offroad installed the exhaust they mounted a hanger to the body (WTH)..  so vibration noises carry from suspension to body. Stupid! So I need to schedule an appointment with Muffler Man to have it fixed.  Not to mention you can hear like a bolt or something rattling around inside the new muffler.

That's where we are today

Just got back from a couple of offroad places in Lansing, MI

Michigan Offroad Center and AllPro in effort to help me figure out why I'm getting this horrible vibration.

Michigan Offroad Center (Brian) worked on my Blazer for about 3 hours troubleshooting and came to the conclusion, they don't know either.  They did point out the front driveshaft is at an insane angle which is more than likely the cause and the only solution they can think of is lower engine and trans to make the front driveshaft work OR deal with it.

Rear driveshaft, they suggested adding some wedges to see if it makes it worse, then we could tell where the issue lies.

Again, great guys!  Very knowledgeable. Wish they could of helped me out but sometimes its just not possible.

 

AllPro is right down the street (Ken) and I figured before I start the hour drive back home I would check with him to see if he had any thoughts.  He suggested a SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) on the rear which would add some extra needed length to the driveshaft which may reduce the angle.  Also it would eliminate dirt and garbage getting caught up in the yoke.  I have been researching this a little and I think jbconversions has one for around $400 for the NP241c transfer case. Remember to include the cost of the new driveshaft with a change like this (you must either have a slip-yoke on the driveshaft or transfer case to allow for suspension cycling and differentiating lengths as that occurs). A SYE (or fixed yoke driveshaft) lets you run a longer driveshaft-or even a CV-joint-driveshaft for better driveshaft angles and less vibration and if it gets damaged you can remove the broken driveshaft and drive home in Front Wheel Drive (no loosing fluid).  So whats the downfall behind the SYE? With a slip-yoke on the back of a transfer case is that it will fall out of the back of the transfer case and you'll lose your gear oil if you pull the rear driveshaft.

These kits will both go a long ways to reducing driveline vibes by alleviating the angles of the rear shaft. The stock slip yoke is also a source of clunking as it can bind when the angles get severe enough. Having the slip joint in the driveshaft eliminates this as well.

Cancelled "The Car Guys Garage" until I get vibration figured out.  It's back at Unlimited Offroad since I didn't have the vibration prior to them putting the new axles in.  They gotta fix what they installed.  I don't have the money to have another business start fixing it.