Cowboy Denny

Looks like I may have stumbled onto a solution that appears to be working So I read somewhere that I adjust that potentiometer to 44.9k ohms resistance when measuring on the back side of the tach. Well when u turn as far as u can it’s 43k at the most and when we tested it was 4000 rpm right from the get go. Then I was like, it was at 33k ohms and rpm was 3000 and then 43k it’s was 4000 and with my timing light I can see it’s actual 1600rpm so change the password ohms to around 18k and it should read about right. bam! Worked like a charm

Hey everyone, new to the forum and was hoping to get some help since I’m out of ideas First a little about the truck. it’s a 94 T100 4x4 DX Manual Trans with the 3.0L V6 Below is comparison of the original cluster with no tach and the new/used cluster with a tach. note: everything works with the new cluster but it shows 3000RPM when the timing light shows 1500RPMs i know there is a blue potentiometer that appears to have a Phillips screw and I thought I read u could adjust the rpm this way but to access it you would have to take the rpm faceplate off so not sure how am I suppose to adjust this tach so it’s correct? any ideas is super appreciated

There is a great event called KOAR but it books up quick. Go to there website for more information but I believe its a great start. https://keweenawoverlandadventureretreat.com/

I'd like to start off my saying, I know there are pro's and con's for every Side by Side that is made but would like to get some of your opinions and experiences with each make and model. I also titled this with 2021 in the title so the model is from 2021 and older since many companies make improvements that either go to the pro side or the con side for everyone.

Yesterday I received my dash cluster back from Circuit Medics from changing the soldered on bulbs to LED bulbs and wow does it make a huge difference and they were fast. When Fed-Ex dropped it off it was one business day for them to fix it and ship it out. Very happy with my decision to send it.

constant +12v ..................... orange accessory +12v ................... yellow ground ............................... black dimmer ............................... grey front left speaker (+) ............ tan front left speaker (-) ............. light grey front right speaker (+) ........... light green front right speaker (-) ........... dark green rear left speaker (+) .............. brown rear left speaker (-) .............. yellow rear right speaker (+) ............ dark blue rear right speaker (-) ............. light blue

Just pulled in the driveway and parked the new Blazer. Had fun going through Memphis then down to Tupelo, MS to pick the K5 up then headed to Nashville for the day and night then home bound on Sunday. Sunday was a long drive in a truck I wasn't familiar with but it ran good. Max speed was 80 comfortably and horsepower wise or that 700R4 would have to keep downshifting to please my demand for power. So I didn't realize how bad the interior was, its not so good. Dash pad is cracked, sliced and butchered. It appears they were trying to replace the speakers maybe since those are the only areas that are hacked. So new dash pad is required. Driver side seat back support is broke so you have a gangster lean to the right if you want to or not. So new seats are needed. Nothing else major except I want to change the wine color to all black which means a complete replacement of the interior which is going to be hell and expensive but look bad ass. Maybe even use billet for accents. On the exterior all I see is the paint job is crap so I'll remove the moldings and stickers from the windows. Probably get a decent paint job at Maaco since most body shops don't want to touch it but either way I'm leaning on keeping it white. Right off the start I need shocks and 33's balanced. My goal is to change them to 3/4 ton or 1 ton axles (roughly $3100 for front G2 D44 with eaton e-locker and another $3400 for back G2 D44 with eaton e-locker) Also I am not sure if I should keep the interior the red wine color (which is cool because no one does unique colors for interiors anymore) or change the interior to all black. It desperately needs a paint job (not decided color... leaning towards blue like my cutlass but considering keeping the original white) Check out the build in the forums https://gearcrushers.com/forums/topic/3-1991-chevy-blazer-k5/

Not sure how many of you SquareBody owners have had your glovebox just pop open while driving down the road. Super fun right? nope. Here are some handy dandy instructions on how to make that issue just go away by replacing the latch. Now they aren't as simple as they may appear but it will get ya going. Step #1 Open the Glove Compartment Door, if not already opened from a broken latch, and then move the latch itself to the closed position by pushing it upward into the assembly as pictured below. note: some have a key slot and actually lock Step #2 Now that the latch is in the CLOSED latched position, using a pick or small screwdriver, push down on the locking tab inside the mechanism through the hole closest to the glove compartment door on the passenger side of the assembly picture below. Keep in mind, if you can not see the tab to be depressed, it's because you don't have the latch in the closed position. This is why you close the latch so the tab is exposed thru the small hole. This is what the actual tab you are looking for to depress will look like inside the assembly. Step #3 Now put the paperclip into the hole in the front of the knob. This holds the tab in the depressed position and you should be able to now remove the pick form the assembly. Check to be sure though. This is why the bigger paper clip works better. REMEMBER, DO NOT PRY ON THE GLOVE BOX KNOB !!! NOTE: the locks with a key slot, you actually use the key instead of the paperclip. Step #4 Once the paperclip is in place to hold the tab, you can pull the pick out and in the larger rectangular hole toward the end of the latch assembly, insert the pick and gently pry the tumbler piece outward. The knob at this point will start coming out of the glove box door, but then you feel another stop and you will stop. DO NOT PRY any further at that point. You have hit the 2nd Tab. Here is what the 2nd tab will look like inside the assembly. Step #5 Now that the 2nd Tab is the same location as the first tab you depressed, go back to the same hole with the pick and push in the 2nd tab with the pick. Step #6 You should now be able to pull the tumbler completely out of the cylinder and latch mechanism. Step #7 Spin the cylinder and latch assembly counter clockwise to remove the assembly form the glove box door. And here is what you should now have after spinning the cylinder and latch assembly off of the threaded retainer. IF BY CHANCE, your latch is OK, but the mechanism is just loose, here is where you can simply tighen the mechanisn to the threaded retainer, then reinstall the tumbler and you're good to go. Here is what the front of the threaded retainer will look like. If you will need to remove that too, I'd probably use a ratchet extension or large allen wrench to extract this part for the door, but usually not necessary since you are likely replacing the broken latch part itself. And there you go !!! It's that simple once you know the little secrets of how it's done. I fought with one for hours til I finally just broke it to figure out how it worked.

State Motorcycle helmet use governs: Does the motorcycle helmet law cover all low-power cycles? Bicycle helmet use governs: Alabama all riders yes 15 and younger Alaska 17 and younger yes no law Arizona 17 and younger some no law Arkansas 20 and younger yes no law California all riders yes 17 and younger Colorado 17 and younger and passengers 17 and younger yes no law Connecticut 17 and younger yes 15 and younger Delaware 18 and younger some 17 and younger District of Columbia all riders some 15 and younger Florida 20 and younger some 15 and younger Georgia all riders some 15 and younger Hawaii 17 and younger some 15 and younger Idaho 17 and younger some no law Illinois no law no law no law Indiana 17 and younger yes no law Iowa no law no law no law Kansas 17 and younger some no law Kentucky 20 and younger some no law Louisiana all riders yes 11 and younger Maine 17 and younger some 15 and younger Maryland all riders some 15 and younger Massachusetts all riders yes 1-16 (riding with children younger than 1 prohibited) Michigan 20 and younger some no law Minnesota 17 and younger yes no law Mississippi all riders yes no law Missouri all riders some no law Montana 17 and younger some no law Nebraska all riders yes no law Nevada all riders some no law New Hampshire no law no law 15 and younger New Jersey all riders yes 16 and younger New Mexico 17 and younger some 17 and younger New York all riders some 1-13 (riding with children younger than 1 prohibited) North Carolina all riders yes 15 and younger North Dakota 17 and younger yes no law Ohio 17 and younger yes no law Oklahoma 17 and younger some no law Oregon all riders yes 15 and younger Pennsylvania 20 and younger some 11 and younger Rhode Island 20 and younger some 15 and younger South Carolina 20 and younger yes no law South Dakota 17 and younger yes no law Tennessee all riders yes 15 and younger Texas 20 and younger some no law Utah 17 and younger yes no law Vermont all riders some no law Virginia all riders some no law Washington all riders yes no law West Virginia all riders some 14 and younger Wisconsin 17 and younger some no law Wyoming 17 and younger some no law Information taken from iihs.gov December, 2011. Please check for current state laws before traveling.