wildweaselmi

Now the cab is ordered I have about two months to strip everything off the frame. Then clean existing rust off frame / suspension, paint with POR-15. May look at anyone in area that will acid dip the frame to clean it inside and out. I would really hate to look for a new frame for this truck. Doubt they exist. Will probably pull motor, trans, transfer case, etc so I can get all the frame cleaned off. Whats odd is the new body doesn't come with a Title.. not sure what to do. WIll have to research that later

Body is rusted out so found another 63 Chevy truck cab at Desert Valley Auto Parts in Arizona $650 plus $950 transport fee to Michigan. Ordered today with F&S Carriers to deliver to MMC Collision. They did the work on the K5 and it was awesome! This truck is not a show truck but they are getting so hard to find that I want to protect it from Michigan rust.

So started to disassemble the truck. Removed the snow plow and removed left front fender to find everything is spray foamed. I’ve never seen so much spray foam. Ordered some parts from Brothers

First topic should be dated 2019-03-14 Found this sick beast sitting in someones yard rotting away. Always loved the old trucks so it appears I’ve going to invest in another money pit but I’m not making it a show truck. Just want it to be a solid driver. Will post pictures but I can tell ya I have no experience with body work what so ever so anything rusted out I’ll have to replace which is pretty much the entire body but I was given two doors (with glass) and a solid hood which would of cost me $900 for hood and $530 each for the doors so doing good there. CAB is my biggest worry. I may just have to take it off and bring it somewhere to have it worked on. So let’s get an idea of body work cost (besides what the cab will cost me) Front Fenders ($220 each, so $440) Cowl Panel ($100 each, so $200) Grill Support Panel ($270) Bedside-Complete ($650 each, so $1300) Just starting… I’ll add as I figure out what mess I got into

Here are some items just off the top of my head... I know I'm missing a bunch winch auxillary lights tool kit hijack mre's spare drive shaft spare u joints shovel and axe or pitchfork descent size cooler ( use as cooler,chair,step, tool and parts prop,moving a bunch of odds and ends, keeping spare parts in, etc.) flashlights tire repair kit flares tow straps tow rope utility rope ...etc etc...your "expedition'' rig should be set up like a good hiking pack.

Ok need to update the "To Do List" I have to figure out my HVAC and why not getting air movement. Pretty sure the duct work is messed up. Wish some of these after market companies just made replacement (rebuild kit).. not Vintage Air.. had that in my cutlass and it totally sucked. Roll Cage (seems silly and very expensive but I won't go on some of these trails with my kids in the back without one. Custom Dash (make it more usable). I was always trying to keep everything original, now I just want it functional Transmission. Yea, still fighting this battle. It's not horrible but I don't trust it after Dan the Trans man found copper shavings at the bottom of the trans pan... he said more than likely the torque converter is going bad (again). Storage. I would like to add some sliding storage to the back so I can keep many of my supplies secured (especially when the top is off) Rear Bumper. Get a more functional heavy duty bumper that I can carry my spare without worrying about the weight of it ripping it off. Center Console. Need somewhere to keep all your loose papers, HAM Radio, etc. Rock Sliders (DIY4x)

Here is a great start to see what Michigan DNR has deemed ORV trails that you could enjoy. https://www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,4570,7-350-79119_79148---,00.html

A common question is "what modifications should I make to my vehicle to make it trail worthy?" Reading the offroad magazines, you might think gears, lockers, armor and a radical suspension is required. Below is our take on what it takes to Fool Around offroad. Note that modifications are listed in order of importance and each level assumes you have done everything in the previous step. Vehicle selection Before doing any modifications, make sure you are starting with a good platform. Most any short wheelbase vehicle whose transfercase has high and low range works well on the trails in our area. The Jeep Wrangler is by far the most popular choice, but you would be fine with a Toyota pickup and 4Runner, Nissan Pathfinder, Suzuki Samurai, Chevrolet Tracker, S10 pickup/Blazer, Jeep Cherokee etc. Full size pickups, Blazers and Broncos are too wide for the trails we run. First step A stock vehicle will go amazing places. Get a CB radio. Install tow hooks front and rear if you don't already have them. Get your tools and recovery equipment and figure out how to store them securely. Get the biggest, knobbest tires you can fit. Consider a second set of tires just for the trail if this is a daily driver. Wheel it in this state for a couple of years to see if the sport is really for you. You will learn a lot of off road skills. Spend time watching other rigs and figuring out what your ultimate goal is; mild, moderate or wild and most importantly - how big of a tire do you want. Once you have made this decision, you can start to modify your rig without wasting money on mods that you end up replacing later. Mild build Most likely a daily driver, at home on easy trails, but capable of moderate trails. The good news is that after your "First Step" you already have a mild rig. You might think about adding a selectable rear locker like an ARB, improving body armor with rocker protection and ground clearance with "belly up" skid plates. Moderate build With this target in mind, you are probably going to keep the stock axles. Your first modification should be a roll cage. Then find out how big of a tire your stock axles can support and choose a tire this size or smaller. Then figure out how much lift (or better yet, sheet metal trimming) you need to fit it. These tires will need lower gears and you should add a rear locker at the same time. You might want to think about a winch and front locker or limited slip. You will begin to see the wisdom of a tow rig and trailer to get home should you break something on the trail. Wild build At this level, you are probably talking about a dedicated trail rig. You should keep it street legal as some venues require driving on local roads to get to the trail head. You should mount seats to the roll cage and install four point seat belts. Heavier duty axles, front and rear lockers, and a winch are mandatory. Once tire size goes over 38" you will need a hydraulic ram to assist steering.

Basic Equipment Every vehicle should carry these and they should be securely fastened down (like everything else). You should be able to reach the flashlight and fire extinguisher from your seat. Factory seat belts do not release if you are upside down (don't ask how we know this). CB radio Flashlight First aid kit (include any of your family's special needs like EpiPens or insulin) Fire extinguisher Complete change of clothes Full size spare tire Jack Wrench to remove tire (and key if you have locking lug nuts) Tow hooks front and rear Specialty tools for your vehicle Good to have With the exception of the Hi-Lift, every vehicle really should have these too. Tow strap (no hooks on ends!) Shackle Short piece of chain with washers and bolt that fits through middle links Small tarp or blanket Hand towel(s) Rachet strap High lift jack Basic Tools Regardless of your mechanical skills you should carry these to fix your rig of someone else's. Philips and flat screwdrivers Adjustible wrench Set of combination wrenches (metric or SAE to fit your vehicle) Pliers Ball peen hammer Duct tape Zip ties Small roll heavy wire Spare fuses Fan belt(s) Optional Tools These are really more for the skilled mechanic, but consider carrying a few of these as well. Schrader valve and removal tool Chisel Punch Socket set Small vice grip Channel locks Allen wrenchs Torx bits (if your vehicle is cursed with them) Stubby and offset screwdrivers Hacksaw File Teflon tape WD-40 or wire dry spray Scissors Electrical tester Wire strippers Electrical wire, tape and connectors Misc. nuts and bolts Extra fluids (motor oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, ATF, gear lube)

Changed Oil in my Blazer today. (325,288 miles) 5 quarts of Royal Purple 5w-30 (I have one more 5qt container then I'll probably move to Mobile One since it can be found everywhere and it performs as good if not better than Royal Purple) Advance Auto didn't have my AC Delco PF25 Oil Filter so I went with a K&N HP 2002 filter (last time I get a K&N Filter and think I'll use FRAM next time) Check out the Oil Filter Cross Reference site here

It looks like I need to update my rear bumper. The weight of a 37.5" tire is just too much for the Offroad Ltd Bumper. So I am looking at what DIY4x use to offer for a rear bumper tire carrier and they had one option which is this bumper I like how durable it is but I have some minor issues in comparison. CONS I don't like the lights on angle, prefer them to be straight (silly I know) I love how the OffroadLtd Bumper had a place for my jack. Not sure how to work that in here Bummer for me is I can't have my tire cover anymore with this design. PROS No movement from bumper with weight of tire like there is with OffroadLtd Bumper Easy to get tire Way easier to get access to tailgate Need to find something like what DIY4x use to offer

The 700R4 just isn't right so I brought the Blazer to someone my dad knows "Dan the Trans man" since he did such a fantastic job on getting my dads 40 tuned in (as far as Transmissions go). After about two days he looked it over and several bolts were loose that hold the trans as well as the bolts on the pan. But what worries me is when he drained the fluid he found a bunch of brass or copper shavings in the oil. He said its more than likely from the torque converter (which I already blew up a torque converter that Frayleys Transmission put in). Dan's estimate to rebuild it the way it should be built is about $2000 and he needs three days. Going to table that for now and just drive it. Dan also had to replace the governor. The green gear at the end was very worn out. It drives pretty good now but I don't feel I have the 4th gear like I use to but could all be in my head.

MMC collision in Davison did a fantastic job fixing the roof. Check out the after pictures here. It was around $2500 for all the work. I’ll try and get pics when they were working on it. I may have them paint my blazer in the winter

So no outer roof anywhere so Carl from MMC took the challenge. I stopped by yesterday and man does it look great. Looks factory to me. Should have it either Tuesday or Wednesday and I’ll share pictures then

Ok so I stopped by MMC to see if they had a chance to start working on the Blazer and to my surprise they have already started, so that's the good news. Now the bad news is apparently TONS of rust. As they are getting into it, they found it would be great to find a new skin they could just lay down but no one makes it for the Blazer (including LMC Truck) so they have to custom make everything. Will keep you posted. Just as a reference point, I did find some cool sites for auto body parts https://www.autobodyspecialt.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=0111 This one shows only to 1986: http://www.goodmarkindustries.com/chevrolet-k5blazer-parts.aspx RPS: http://restorationpartssource.com/store/K5 Blazer_1981_1991_Sheet_Metal_and_Body_Parts.htm GM Discount Parts I always check because I love OEM but most of the time they don't have what I need but its a great place to get part numbers that you can search for on the internet https://www.gmdiscountpartsnow.com/a/Chevrolet_1991_Blazer-Silverado-57L-Chevrolet-AT/_51505_6403488/ROOF--COMPONENTS-EXTERIOR-TRIM/GC1120.html OEMcats is a great site for OEM parts: http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/355616.html Car-Part.com is a great search of all junk yards in United States. You can sort my closest since many don't ship big parts.

Let me tell ya its difficult to walk out into my garage and not see my Blazer there. I wonder how often you can stop by and check on progress without becoming a pain in the ass. Pretty sure I am going to just swing by today and see if they started on it. Anxious to see the progress and how much metal is gone after they sand blast all the rust off.

Just dropped the Blazer off at around 4:15pm today (5/30/2018) to get that rust repaired (estimate is $1100 - $2500 and two weeks) 112 State Street Davison, MI 48423 Open: Mon. – Fri. 9 a.m. till 5 p.m. 810-412-4215

So in regards to what I decided to do to fix my tires rubbing is nothing for the moment. Instead I took the top off the Blazer (its 90+ degrees out) and learned you should never do this by yourself.. it was HEAVY. Luckily I didn't break any of the custom glass windows in the hard top when I dropped it.. a couple times. BUT luck ran out real quick when I discovered how bad the rust is that was hidden with the top on. Let me upload some photos so you can feel my pain

Select as flat and level a parking site as possible, consistent with other considerations Place the shift lever in park and set the parking brake. The automatic hydraulic leveling system will not operate unless these conditions are met Have a person outside to place support blocks under the stabilizing jacks. Engage the automatic hydraulic leveling system to level and stabilize the coach, with the engine running to provide alternator power With the engine still running for alternator power, extend any desired slideouts once the unit is leveled and secure Check the site’s 30 amp shore power receptacle for proper polarity prior to hook up, if applicable Ensure that the refrigerator (in auto mode) has shifted its power to 120 vac Connect the coach’s city water hose to the site’s water source, ensuring that the coach’s water pressure regulator is correctly installed between the site’s water source and the coach Connect the coach’s dump hose to the site’s sewage receptacle using the coach’s hose slope adapter, if applicable. Open the grey tank valve, but do not open the black tank as it requires at least ¾ full to dump properly. Plan to close the grey tank valve when the black tank reaches ½ full so as to have sufficient grey water aboard to flush the black tank at dump time.

Exterior Check all fluids (coolant, electrolyte, hydraulic, oil, power steering, transmission, windshield washer) Check generator oil level Disconnect city water, if applicable Reset coach’s freshwater controls to onboard water, if applicable Fill coach freshwater tank (add a capful of bleach), then stow the hose Using the dump checklist, dump the waste tanks, if applicable Ensure the propane tank is as desired Ensure that all basement doors are closed, latched, and locked Disconnect and stow the coach’s shore power cable Ensure that the refrigerator (in auto mode) has shifted back to propane power Retract the leveling jacks, stow the support blocks, and visually inspect each jack for proper travel stowage position Interior Retract any slideouts and secure for travel Ensure that the windows are securely closed and locked Arrange the blinds and curtains, as desired Ensure that the air conditioner is off Ensure that the furnace is off Secure all drawers and doors Secure all loose objects for travel Turn all lights off Ensure that the overhead vent fan in the bathroom is off and the vent is securely closed Ensure that the oven pilot light is off Ensure that the water heater is off Ensure that the freshwater pressure pump is off Check all tank level indications Close the main door to retract the powered steps Lock the main door with the deadbolt and the latch lock

It's the dreaded 7-Way RV plug that we all have come to know and love. Most new vehicles equipped with a tow package have connectors. Trailers with electric brakes need them too. The 7-Way Trailer Plug is a round 2" diameter connector that allows an additional pin for an auxiliary 12-volt power or backup lights. It is usually used for towing a heavy-duty landscaping trailer, car trailer, boat trailer, horse trailer, travel trailer, construction trailer, and larger trailers When referencing the 7-Way RV Plug diagram, make sure you are looking at the plug the way the diagram is showing you. Having the wires backwards will cause problems. Keep in mind that it isn’t always as simple as matching the colors like you might be inclined to do. Match the functions, not the colors. Make sure your ground wire, which is typically white, is securely attached to the frame on both the truck and trailer side. The ground wire should be large enough to handle the entire load, do not depend on grounding through the ball. Grease your trailer plug. A thin coat of grease will help prevent copper oxide from building up. That is the green stu that forms when oxygen from the air or water come in contact with copper. You may thing the rubber caps protect the plug but they tend to hold the water in. If your brake lights work, or your marker lights work, but nothing works when you turn on both at the same time, your trailer is not grounded to the truck. So, if you step on the brakes and all the trailer lights go out, then you need to ground your trailer to your truck with the ground wire.